Agate
Forum Replies Created
-
I definitely understand your reservations about purchasing an item which has a high probability of becoming a wasteful paperweight.One more option I just came across, after thinking I’d already seen every possibility: https://www.usefulstuff.de/product-page/EmullgieraufsatzOcis (For the keyword search, it’s the OCIS homogenizing attachment for a Dremel motor). It’s manufactured in Luxembourg and is meant to last ten years according to the website.If Google translate isn’t conclusive for you I’m happy to translate parts.As for the limited continuous run time, which a lot of those devices have, I’ve found this which may be helpful:What is the maximum continuous period of time that I can run the Ultra-Turrax® T 25?
The motor is rated for 100% on time, but where you’ll run into issues is the teflon bearing inside the dispersing element.
That will eventually overheat, depending on the speed used and both the
substances and volumes being homogenized. That said, most substances
will achieve their minimum achievable particle size in a matter of
seconds or minutes so it shouldn’t be a problem.If you’re running
the Ultra-Turrax for longer than that, you’re probably either running
it for longer than necessary or using the incorrect instrument for the
application. If you want something which can be used continuously
for an in-line process, this is not the correct instrument; this is for
batch processes only. If want to ensure that an already
homogenized substance stays mixed after homogenization, you should
homogenize with the Ultra-Turrax first then utilize an overhead stirrer to prevent sedimentation or separation. -
I can’t comment on that specific homogenizer, though if the 1000mPas maximum viscosity is true I would also be concerned.I’ve been looking for a similar homogenizer myself, and am currently most interested in this one: https://www.amazon.de/Homogenisator-Hochgeschwindigkeits-Dispersions-justierbarer-intelligenter-Laborspender-Homogenisierungsmischer-Zelldispersion/dp/B07ZFT57CK/ref=as_sl_pc_tf_til?tag=&linkCode=w00&linkId=&creativeASIN=B07ZFT57CK Several people in a German forum bought it this year and have had success with it. Some reported successfully homogenizing cosmetic creams and lotions up to 150ml, but it can start from as low as 5ml. One person did notice that theirs didn’t have the grounding wire soldered to anything, so you do get what you pay for. Another person recently had some sort of motor/electronic failure after a few uses, but the seller has offered to send a replacement free of charge.
-
Maybe it is this study? https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0195670113000297
-
We’ve already discussed this in the other thread, no? The issue that I see is that most spray bottles that consumer hand sanitizer is sold in do not dispense enough to achieve full coverage and sufficient contact time, within a reasonable amount of pumps.What I’m arguing against is the misconception that liquid formulas automatically mean that it should be in a spray bottle, which is false. I’ve seen this perpetuated about a dozen times over the past month, and I’m getting a bit frustrated repeating myself.(If anyone wants me to stop saying that sprays aren’t recommended, show me where the WHO says that spray bottles are appropriate for dispensing hand sanitizer, I couldn’t find it. If you can find such information I’ll apologize for my mistake and won’t mention it again. Until then, you’ll have to put up with me.
) -
Simple process to make soap with lye leached from wood ash: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c2Ka0jrOa6A As a generalization, hardwood works better than softwood as it contains more potassium.
-
It’s easy enough to calibrate a pump to deliver a specified quantity of product.Fair enough, whichever way you can achieve that enough product is dispensed. I personally wouldn’t know how to do that, and I imagine many DIYers reading on here won’t either, so that’s who my admittedly generalized warning was geared towards.
-
@lmosca Thanks for explaining, that makes sense to me now. Since you’re saying that isethionic acid can be relatively easily purified I imagine that’s how they’re making it “1,4-dioxane free”.
-
@Perry Thanks for the warning, I definitely don’t want to set myself up for trouble with the FDA.
-
@MarkBroussard Clearly most people don’t know how to effectively use sanitizer and are safer washing hands with soap, but this isn’t always practical. So I argue that a bottle which easily dispenses the right amount increases the odds of people using enough sanitizer.
-
I’m considering using Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate. Is it made using ethylene oxide? I’ve read that isethionates are made through ethoxylation, yet the manufacturer claims that it’s “1,4-Dioxane free”, so I’m not sure what’s true.
-
@Perry Do the same regulations apply for colour(ed) materials which have another purpose in the formula, either functional or as a claims ingredient? Could one argue that carrot oil is a claims ingredient or has some sort of benefit for the formula, but just happens to turn the product orange in the process?
-
@RDchemist15 You’re exactly right, contact time is the issue. If you spray, you just won’t apply enough liquid to ensure that you get full coverage for long enough, as the little amount that gets sprayed will evaporate too quickly.Theoretically, I imagine you could thoroughly spray your hands, and you might be able to get the same coverage and amount on both hands by drenching your hands in sprayed solution.But what I see happening in practice is that people lightly mist their hands and consider it done, as can for example be seen in this video with 1.3 million views (after about 4:10): https://youtu.be/jlLXe8m6zdk?t=250 The whole procedure lasts 6 seconds and I’d bet money that his hands were dry after that time.On a more anecdotal base, I have never seen another medical professional use a spray nor known a hospital offer spray disinfection. It’s always been liquid or gel, provided in large volume pump dispensers, used in liberal amounts.Finally, as much as I love to question authority and find my own way of doing things, now is a time to follow the WHO instructions as shown above. It’s just crazy to me that so many people seem to make a perfectly good product, but then use it in a way where they may as well not bother.
-
It really does
not matter if you use a spray or a gel. Simply spray 1 pump wait 15
seconds, spray another pump. Or, use a gel.As a medical professional, I feel a duty to point out that sprays are absolutely not appropriate for hand sanitization. This is a very common but dangerous misconception due to many sanitizers being wrongly sold as sprays.It is true that liquids work just as well as gels, if not better. But you do need to use the same amount of both and apply them the same way: pour/pump ~3ml in the palm of one hand, then perform the WHO recommended handrub steps (which are the same steps as used for hand washing): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B3eq5fLzAOo -
The WHO formula should not be in a spray. It’s a dangerous way of application as you are guaranteed to achieve incomplete disinfection.If you use google to search this forum (query: site:chemistscorner.com hand sanitizer), you’ll find answers to your question.
-
A few years ago I spent something like $20 on a 16oz. “anti-allergy” shampoo for our cat… gullible pet owners aren’t a bad market.
-
Easy solution: Follow the WHO formula (https://www.who.int/gpsc/5may/Guide_to_Local_Production.pdf) which doesn’t include or require a gelling agent in the first place. It’s simple, it’s cheap, ingredients are available, and most importantly it’s proven to be effective. The only drawback is that some users must be educated that liquid formulations work and should be used exactly like gel formulations (e.g. not spraying it or otherwise using too little).
-
I’ve not yet made a shampoo bar myself, I have just read in multiple places that many shampoo bars benefit from extended drying time. One example:Something I’ve learned in my solid shampoo experiments is the benefit of
extended drying periods. Much like soap, the shampoo bar lasts longer
if it dries longer. While a day or two is fine, I find at least
a week is great. I’ve made some particularly soft bars that seemed like
they were destined to be shower slop, but after 6 weeks of aging they
turned into brilliant hard bars that are surviving just fine in the
shower.https://www.humblebeeandme.com/mango-mango-shampoo-bar/
I’m not confident that this alone will resolve your problem, but did want to point it out in case the fix is just that simple.
I don’t have much else to say about all of the above, only that Disodium/Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate is a very popular choice in the German natural cosmetics market, giving a better hair feel than Coco glucoside, though I don’t know how these properties change when interacting with SCS.
-
How long did you let it dry before use?
-
Thanks to both for weighing in.With the cocoyl being prone to variability it makes sense to me that the more consistent lauryl is used as the industry standard.Since I am looking to go into a niche market where people might well dismiss a product that has “Sodium Lauryl ___” in it, I’ll focus on the cocoyl and deal with the variability if no other disadvantage comes up.
-
@Fekher What WHO document are you referring to?
-
Ah that makes sense, thanks for sharing.
-
As far as I’m aware you wouldn’t need a preservative, provided that the person who uses it doesn’t accidentally or intentionally add water to the container. If you wanted to have some protection for that eventuality, you may still want to add a preservative.Also, I imagine that the lecithin acts as an emulsifier to be able to incorporate the glycerin with the oils/butters. I haven’t tried it but I don’t think you’d have much luck mixing the two without lecithin.
-
Now that you mention it I realize that there was some thickening as the pH dropped, when I get my pH meter I’ll do a proper test at
different levels.How do you market your shampoo, if you don’t mind me asking? I keep reading how vital a strong online presence is, but your example seems to disprove this as I couldn’t find much when searching.Hope you can find what you need for making sanitizer, ultimately we will all benefit from it. -
Very interesting, thank you.How do you test for pH limits? Today I was testing Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate for the first time, which initially dissolved into a milky-opalescent solution with a pH of about 6. I added some lactic acid and suddenly it became fully transparent below about pH 4-5 (with paper, pH meter is on its way). I was very pleased with my initial test (a hair wash with ~12% active surfactant matter and a bit of salt). Only later did I realize that the manufacturer recommends adjusting to a pH of 5.5-6. This had me seriously confused because my solution was opalescent at that pH, but now I wonder where the lower pH limit lies, and what might happen near or beyond that.I had a look at your website (pearandpeach.com?), are you mainly focused on selling your own brand or doing contract manufacturing?