[Abdullah]

This formula will not condition your hair and may not clean your hair properly. 

It may also make your hair dry because you will try use more and more to clean properly.

If you want to make a gentle shampoo, use a blend that has SCI or SLMI as primary surfactant.

[Abdullah]

cjames said:

Hi May I ask is  Cationic Guar gum the same as Guar gum .I am in the UK and can not find  Cationic Guar gum. I have a formula the requires  Cationic Guar gum could I use Guar gum .Thank you 

Cationic guar gum has different types. The least expensive is called guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride. Search for that.

[Abdullah]

How do you make it and what materials it contact with during making? 

In my experience the sweet spot is making no more than 10% solution and it should not contact any type of metal. 

I store it in HDPE plastic.

[Abdullah]

Write the inci names

[Abdullah]

@ketchito thanks for explanation.

What about mixing two anionic surfactants?

And can you name some small alcohols? 

[Abdullah]

ketchito said:

@Abdullah I’d choose our good all friend dimethicone, at least for shampoos. Cationic silicones (like amodimethicones) are used more often in emulsions.

Thanks

[Abdullah]

@Pharma thanks 

So is the only way to increase miccele size to mix non-ionic and amphoteric surfactant with anionic surfactant or mixing different several anionic surfactants like SLS+SLES also increases miccele size? 

[Abdullah]

Of course the one with 0.4Hp is better. 

But the best thing is to purchase an emulsifier head. Not just a mixer. 

There was a post a few days ago about it.

[Abdullah]

@Pharma sorry i couldn’t understand this part ????

In a Shampoo, what is the stock solution and what is the actual product? 

[Abdullah]

@ketchito that is interesting. I never check the stability of my cleansing products because i thought they have nothing in them that is not soluble in water phase. Amodimethicone is already pre emulsified and water soluble. 

I use 0.1% xanthan gum and around 5000 mpas viscosity. Is that enough as stabilizer?

And for stability test, should i do 40°c 3 month like we do for emulsion or anything different? 

[Abdullah]

@grapefruit22 do you know the reason for that? 

I make alpha arbutin solution and it is clear. 

[Abdullah]

Like any field, studying book is good but by taking a course you can learn better and easier. 

[Abdullah]

ketchito said:

@Abdullah i’m not aware of a ratio for this, every formula is different and surfactant selection always play a role.

Btw, if you use a cationic polymer as deposition aid, you better use a non ionic silicone (like dimethicone) instead of amodimethicone.

I am using this Amodimethicone 100k cst + CTAC+ Trideceth-12 macro emulsion in shampoo and conditioner. Which silicone emulsion do you recommend that is better overall conditioning compared to this one?

As i import it in 180kg drum from another country, i can afford to purchase only one silicone for shampoo and conditioner at a time. 

[Abdullah]

Fekher said:

@Abdullah for shampoo or bodywash it is better to use cationic polymer however why not to try a sample without it and see the result, my thoughts that tensioactifs in the product may can (dissolve/emulsify) your silicone. 

Yes cationic polymers are very important multitasking ingredients but for hair conditioning, i like the feeling of silicone more than polymer. So i wanted to minimize polymer and maximize silicone from polymer/silicone combo from Shampoo.

[Abdullah]

By high level you mean what percentage oleic acid? 

[Abdullah]

mikeylamar said:

Abdullah said:

Adding vegetable oils like sesame oil without antioxidant is not a good idea.

I read that sesame oil has a long shelf life. Does it oxidise quicker when combined into a lotion?

Only coconut and palm lernal oil has a bit long shelf life. All other vegetable oils have less than 1 year shelf life.

[Abdullah]

GeorgeBenson said:

@Abdullah where do you source your caprylhydroxamic acid? I’d like to try it but can’t find it anywhere, same with chlorphenesin.

I purchase most of my ingredients from china including caprylhydroxamic acid.

I would suggest you use IPBC instead of caprylhydroxamic acid. I would also do so when i finish this batch of caprylhydroxamic acid that i have purchased.

[Abdullah]

Graillotion said:

I also use PE 9010 + some other things and have never had issue with yeast/mold….yet always have that nagging feeling I should add something for y/m.  If Sodium Benzoate is a possible irritant….is there another option…that just brings the y/m…but doesn’t bring any irritation to the table?  Just looking for the best possible y/m protection…without possible irritation….(and open to synthetics).  I always formulate in the range of 4.4-5.2.

PE 9010 os ok for shampoo but for non-ionic emulsions not trustworthy for fungi. 

Several months ago One of my lotion samples preserved with phenoxyethanol/caprylyl glycol @9/1 ratio which is kind of similar to this one did start producing gas after a month or two of production. Mr Perry said candida contamination can be the cause. So i added 0.15% caprylhydroxamic acid to see what will happen. and there was no more gas production anymore. It is stable, no smell or color change and no more gas production up to this time. 
Although i did not use that batch after that gas production. Just keeping it for observation purpose. 

[Abdullah]

What is the pH? 

Maybe your product is contaminated and that is causing this. 

Lactic and citric acid is not the problem.

[Abdullah]

Phenoxyethanol is milder than sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate but they target different microbes. Phenoxyethanol is for bacteria and sb&ps is for fungi.

Also i think currently phenoxyethanol is the number one most used preservative in cosmetics. It means it is well tolerated and doesn’t have bad reputation for majority of people. 

Why do you think it has bad reputation or people may have reaction with it? 

[Abdullah]

Graillotion said:

Bingo on the above… pH and niacinamide is the perfect example of mommy blogger lore….repeated and Repeated and REPEATED….SO MUSH SO, that some of the repackers (which are sometimes started by mommy bloggers) will repeat the lore.  They are 100% cut and paste on their descriptions.  NO RESEARCH! 

So a long time ago…a mommy blogger read the above described paper….was not able to understand it….wrote an incorrect blog…that one bloggers misunderstanding of basic information has become the Bible for the bloggers…  cut and paste, Cut AND Paste, CUT AND PASTE….Is that not the saddest thing you have read all week?

I formulate at 3 different pH’s (based on product type), 4.4 and 4.8 and 5.2.  All products use niacinamide.

Hahaha

[Abdullah]

Using sodium stearoyl lactylate+cationic guar+xanthan gum+ Amodimethicone macro emulsion+ 3% NACL in shampoo

[Abdullah]

Maybe that product has high amount of cationic guar and Acacia Senegal Gum and viscosity.

Or maybe everything after decyl Glucoside is below 1%, glycols are in very small amount and actual opacity of product is caused by combination of other ingredients. 

I am making a line of shampoo that looks as opaque as 1% egds without any pearlizer.

[Abdullah]

It is fine to use at lower pH. Don’t worry

[Abdullah]

Your product pH also has a roll.
Use the lowest pH your skin and formula can tolerate. 
4 is best. 
5 is good.
Anything above 5, i don’t like it. Specially for eczema.