Though kojic acid is cheap, it is very unstable, it won’t stand alkaline environment. Try use kojic acid’s improved form: Kojic acid dipalmitate powder for a change. Much more stable, better whitening effects.

Kojic acid palmitate is a derivative of kojic acid and it is regarded as the best kojic acid version in kojic acid family so far. I compile their differences when they are used in cosmetics as below:

#1 Different solubility

Kojic acid dipalmitate a lipid-soluble substance insoluble in water or ethanol, if you want to use it for skin-whitening, you must choose oil-based lotions or serums, or it will not be dissolved and absorbed by your skin to achieve whitening effects. While Kojic acid is insoluble in lipids but soluble in water. So mix kojic acid into your water-based serums or lotions.

#2 Pigmentation and melasma eliminating effects

Clinical trials have shown that kojic acid dipalmitate’s efficiency is over 50%, and the total effective rate is over 90%, but the effect of kojic acid is much lower.

#3 Whitening effect 

Kojic acid ester has a stronger inhibitory effect on melanin production than kojic acid. For example, kojic acid dibutyrate ester is twice powerful in stopping melanin production than kojic acid

#4 Stablility

As an ester, Kojic acid dipalmitate is more stable than kojic free acid.

Because there are two active hydroxyl groups in kojic acid within kojic acid, kojic acid is easier to be oxidized to change color or its character, while kojic dipalmitate is more difficult to be oxidized to be something else when these two hydroxy groups are protected, then it is less likely for kojic acid palmitate to go yellow or bad when exposed to air, heat, light, and moisture. Plus, kojic dipalmitate will not chelate with many metal ions like kojic acid does within the cosmetics, so kojic dipalmitate lotion will not easily go yellow or change color compared with lotions made of kojic acid.

Plus, kojic acid is not stable in an alkaline environment due to its acid nature, while kojic dipalmitate is relatively more stable when the environmental PH value is between 3 to 10.

#5 Compatibility with other whitening ingredients

Kojic acid palmitate is almost compatible with any preservatives and sunscreens used for cosmetics. It blends well with Vitamin C, alpha arbutin, and Vitamin C derivatives to get a better-whitening effect. Researches have shown that the combined-whitening-effect increased exponentially.

#6 Safety

As an ester, kojic acid palmitate is neutral to your skin. While your skin is easy to get itchy when exposed to a formula containing acid such as kojic acid, glycolic acid, etc. Researches have shown that Kojic acid solution is more likely to cause itching or irritation to your skin.

#7 Cost and Purity

After so many advantages of dipalmitate over kojic acid, kojic acid powder has its advantages. Kojic acid is cheaper, it costs about 1/9 of dipalmitate powder. Also, the purity of kojic acid powder is 99% as min, dipalmitate kojic acid purity is 98% as min.