Home › Cosmetic Science Talk › Formulating › Why so many modern creams contain fatty alcohols instead of the usual stearic acid?
Tagged: cream, fatty-acid, fatty-alcohol
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Why so many modern creams contain fatty alcohols instead of the usual stearic acid?
Posted by Gunther on April 3, 2019 at 12:00 amIs that because fatty alcohols are usually less irritating than fatty acids?
Fatty acids become soaps at higher pH, while alcohols don’tOn the other hand, fatty alcohols can become a bit sticky at higher concentrations.
Microformulation replied 5 years, 8 months ago 6 Members · 8 Replies -
8 Replies
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I am pretty sure texture is the answer. Stearic is draggy and causes a lot of soaping (much more that cetearyl alcohol). There are vey few formulas with stearic acid that have good texture (I usually think of the formulator as a magican when I find one). Regarding stickiness, you don’t usually achieve full viscosity by fatty alcohols only, so don’t use it to the point where they become sticky.
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I usually think of “granma’s hand cream in an alumimum tube from early 90’s” when feel stearic acid in a product.
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from an extensive series of experiments carried out a few years ago, I’ve found the two are both surface-active (though they are not emulsifiers) and have substantially different effects on the rheology of the productfatty alcohols increase the zero-shear viscosity of the product, i.e. make it more solid when at rest, and cause the viscosity to decrease very sharply with applied shear forcestearic/palmitic acid has very little effect on the zero-shear viscosity, but increases the viscosity at higher shear rates, i.e. makes the product feel more ‘creamy’
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@Bill_Toge that’s interesting. And regarding temperature?. In my experience fatty alcohols will decrease viscosity above 35°, even using 1% or less.
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DAS said:@Bill_Toge that’s interesting. And regarding temperature?. In my experience fatty alcohols will decrease viscosity above 35°, even using 1% or less.
that depends more on what rheology modifier(s) you have in the water phase - if you use xanthan gum and/or a carbomer, there is little variation of viscosity with temperature, whereas if you use cellulose derivatives the variation is much larger
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@Bill_Toge, this is a very interesting point.. what about carbomers or addition of small amounts of polymeric emulsifiers (for example Aristoflex) as a rheology modifier?
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