Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Why Is My Lotion Too Runny?

  • Why Is My Lotion Too Runny?

    Posted by Ellacho7 on November 24, 2018 at 8:07 am
    Hello, I am a newbie in making lotion and this is my first time posting here. Three days ago, I made a lotion with 10% E-Wax (Cetearly Alcohol & Ceteareth-20) and Optiphen. This is my very first time using this emulsifier and preservative. I have used Olivem1000 and Liquid Germall Plus in the past. I was expecting this to be a thick a cream but it’s quite thin. 
    There is no separation but two things I have noticed:
    1. Too Runny (still see tiny bubbles in side of the bottle)

    2. White streaks when applying


    Water Phase: heated to 75 C and held for 20 mins
    30% Distilled Water
    20% Aloe Vera juice

    10% 1% Hyaluronic Acid Solution.

    3% Glycerin
    .5% Allantoin Powder
    Oil Phase: heated to 75 C and held for 20 mins
    5% Organic Shea Butter
    4% Organic Pumpkin Oil
    6% Olive (infused with organic flowers)
    7% Organic Jojoba Oil (infused with organic flowers)
    10% E-Wax(Cetearly Alcohol ( and) Ceteareth-20)
    Cool Down Phase
    1.5% Optiphen
    1% Hydrolyzed Oats
    .5% Vitamin E
    1% Silk amino Acid
    .5% Lavender EO
    Could you please let me know if there is something wrong with my formula or any other error on my part? I would appreciate your suggestions and advice. Thank you in advance!

    Fekher replied 6 years, 1 month ago 3 Members · 7 Replies
  • 7 Replies
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 24, 2018 at 10:53 am

    Hi there. White streaks are unavoidable when you work with conventional fatty alcohols (cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol etc). You can get rid of it easily by adding silicones (dimethicone, cyclomethicone). Regading problem #1, I suspect that your emulsifier can’t handle your oil phase. Think about it, your oil phase is 22% plus some of your ewax is cetearyl alcohol and you have one emulsifier (ceteareth 20). Assuming that half of that ewax is cetearyl, you are trying to stabilize 27% of oils with 5% of ceteareth 20. You need stronger emulsification system. Calculate HLB of the oil phase to understand what emulsifier you need (probably not one) Other than that your formula looks fine. I would reduce that silk. I bet it doesn’t have a nice smell.

  • Ellacho7

    Member
    November 24, 2018 at 4:15 pm

    @ngarayeva001 
    It makes sense!! Thank you so much!!! ^^ 

    Since seller’s website recommended it for Creams: 10-15% and Lotions: 3-5%, I thought I added an ingredient that wasn’t comparable with an emulsifier or preservative such as aloe vera juice.

    I briefly read about HLB but don’t know how to use it.  Can you please let me know where I can learn about calculating HLB? Thank you again! :)

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 24, 2018 at 6:03 pm

    Aloe does break viscosity of products based on polymers. You don’t have any polymers in your formula, so aloe shouldn’t cause decrease of viscosity for you. Regarding HLB, it would not tell you how much emulsifier to use (you can rely on supplier information for it) but what type of emulsifier. Regarding the calculation, google for a HLB table for oils and emulsifiers. Calculate your total oil phase. That would include oils, butters, tocopherols, fatty alcohols. Your oil phase here is 27.5%. Calculate weigted average of every oil to total oil phase and multiply to the HLB value from the table. You would know what should be hlb of your emulsifier. You need both high and low HLB emulsifiers to mix then to achieve the value u need.

  • Ellacho7

    Member
    November 24, 2018 at 8:11 pm
    @ngarayeva001 
    once again, thank you!!! :)

  • Fekher

    Member
    November 24, 2018 at 9:09 pm

    @Ellacho7 about the level of emulsifier it can be from 5% reaching 15% or more generally 10% is able to give stable emulsion .

  • Ellacho7

    Member
    November 24, 2018 at 10:11 pm

    @Fekher thank you for your suggestion!

  • Fekher

    Member
    November 25, 2018 at 9:43 am

    you are welcome @Ellacho7

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