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why don’t i feel the conditioning effect in my conditioner formula
Hi, I’m working on a conditioner, but it doesn’t seem to provide the same conditioning effect as commercial conditioners. It doesn’t detangle my hair well, and the slip isn’t very good either. Could you suggest some changes to help achieve a silky, smooth feeling?
Phase A (80 °C)
Water to 100
Glycerin 2%
Panthenol 0.5%
guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.8%
Conditionize 37E 1%
Phase B
Incroquat Brehenyl TMS 25 10%
Jojoba oil 1%
Castor oil 1%
Shea butter 1%
Phase C (40°C)
Vitamin E 0.5%
Phenoxyethanol 1%
pH qs
Combine phase A and heat to temperature. Combine phase B but don’t heat. Add phase B to very hot phase A and stir under high speed. Keep stirring until 40°C and add phase C.
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4 Replies
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I would recommend adding a silicone like dimethicone or even better, amodimethicone. This should help add slip and detangling properties to your formula. You are already using 2.5% active BTMS and some Polyquaternium-37, so I don’t think you need more conditioning agents.
Here are some other suggestions you can consider:
- Remove glycerin and save it for leave-in products. Not very useful in rinse-off.
- Reduce cationic guar to ~0.2-0.5%.
- Reduce Vitamin E to ~0.1%, you only need a little.
- You probably need a better preservative than just phenoxyethanol. I would suggest to at least add ethylhexylglycerin at 0.1% but even this could not be enough.
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Thank you so much for your help! I’ll definitely try the tips you gave me.
However, I forgot to mention that my client would like the formula to be silicone-free. I’ve tried different polyquaterniums (like 7, 6, and 10) in hopes that one of them could provide the silky, gliding sensation that silicones give, but none of them have achieved that effect. Do you have any recommendations for an ingredient that could mimic the feel of silicones?
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Silicone-free can be tricky and I don’t have experience with it. However, you could try to replace the oils in your formula with esters and silicone alternatives. Just keep in mind that none of those will really match the performance of a true silicone, despite what their descriptions suggest. LexFeel® N350 MB
(Diheptyl Succinate and Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer) seems to be a popular choice, though I have never tried it. I have worked with Plantasens Olive LD (Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate and Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables) and liked the results. Could be worth a try.
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Okay, excellent! I can get my hands on some Plantasens Olive LD. I’ll try it out and let you know my feedback if you’d like.
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