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Why doesn’t Arachidyl Alcohol (C20) get any love in cosmetics?
As I was tweaking an emulsified cream deodorant, and building some heat tolerance into the formula, it led me to dust off an old friend, Montanov 202 ( INCI: Arachidyl Alcohol &
Behenyl Alcohol
& Arachidyl
Glucoside).In a world where C16 & C18 & C22 rule the roost…. why is C20 so forgotten? Is there anything beyond…. cost and shortage of abundant feedstock, or a lack of byproduct being churned out in the C20 segment? Is there a negative haptic…or aspect I am not familiar with?
Because enquiring minds want to know…. why is C20…the forgotten fatty alcohol?
@evchem2 @ketchito @chemicalmatt
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4 Replies
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I think a C20 (arachidyl) has an issue not only of abundance, but that it’s between what’s commonly used for structuring agents (C16-18) and what’s used for conditioning (C22). Of course there are exceptions (CTAC, SAPDMA), but a C22 gives the cationic surfactant better conditioning. Interestingly, that Montanov supports the idea that for good packing, you need both your structuring agent and your emulsifier to have the same alkyl chain lenght.
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@ketchito The question begs to be asked then……. Why is BTMS typically paired with C1618 and occasionally with just C16… and I have not seen a commercial offering with it paired with C22?
Granted I have created this pairing independently ( but still get some C16 along for the ride)….but must be some reason it has not been done on a large scale???
Note: I always speak from a typical emulsion point of view… moisturizers, creams and lotions (and in this case…cream deo). I don’t do ‘hair’ anything. 😉
Sorry… my mind never ceases.
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Yeah, my guess would be lack of abundant supply. Also, being longer chain than C16 and C18 it tends to have a stiffer feel so makes a heavier cream. C22 is interesting because even though it is longer chain than C20, the way it crystalizes just happens to result in a smoother, better feel.
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Thank you for your responses, @Perry44 and @ketchito .
I have taken to heart the hammering into my thick head of Ketchito’s ‘Like kind’ packing and structuring. The part I left out was…. this emulsion (which is designed to be a thick cream) is supported by BTMS as a co-emulsifier, and behenyl behenate and behenyl alcohol as the structurants. It has made a truly amazing cream…. that fits the goals to a ‘T’. (and of course being the ester King………… 😅 )
Thank you for your time. Always appreciated.
BTW…. Valerie sells a version of BTMS 50 with no C 18!
The other major breakthrough…..has been the discovery of Cetyl-HEC… OMG…where has this been all my life????
Aloha.
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