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Whitening formula problem
Hi every one!
I am new here and I am also new to study formulation.
I am interest in whitening cream formulation. ( I am sorry,English is not my first language).
I have been trying for past 2 months with many practicing. However i am failed and have reaction on my face
1.
Problem 1: My face got dry an very rough(a little bit of itchy) in some
part that make e want to scratch . some small area turned the color to
the same my freckle color ( I am not sure it is new freckled caused by
the formula??)
2. Problem 2 : i have blackhead pimple on my nose and
whitehead pimle on my chin (My skin is very sensitive and easy go get
pimple if i do not eat vegetable for 3-4 days). for last formula i am
using ( for 4 days), I see there is some small pimple ( I think it is
irritation than the normal pimple i got before).
Can any one tell me if something is wrong with any ingredient in my formula? Thanks a lot for your helps.
Below is my formula:
Distilled Water: 51%
Vitamin B3 Niacinamide: 2%
Glycerin :1.5%
Xanthan Gum: 0.2%
Aloe vera powder 200:1 : 0.3%
Sodium-L-Lactate: 2%
Moringa Oil: 1%
Jojoba Oil: 1%
Grapeseed Oil: 0.5%
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride: 2%
Amond sweet oil: 2%
Promegranate seed Oil:1%
Calendula Oil: 1%
Borage Oil: 2%
Olivem 1000: 6%
Mango Butter: 2%
Shea butter: 2%
Oat Oil:05%
Avocado Oil: 0.5%
Squalane: 3%
Stearic Acid: 2%
Cetyl alcohol: 2.5%
Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine : 2%
Vitamine E T50:0.5
Gelmaker EMU: 1%
Snail secretion extract : 2%
Allantoin : 0.5
Papaya extractt: 1%
Bearberry extract : 1.5%
Licorice Extract :1.5%
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate : 1.5
Sodium citrate: 0.5%
Triethanolamine :1%
Citric acid : 0.5%
Phenoxyethanol: 0.5% -
21 Replies
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Anna, the first question is:
Why so many ingredients in your formula? The best formulations are direct … by that I mean, each and every ingredients performs a specific, essential and necessary function. You have lots of ingredients in your formulations that will do absolutely nothing to help achieve your intended result.The ingredients that you have included that will have an effect of skin whitening are: Niacinamide, Bearberry Extract, Licorice Extract and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate.Starting from the Aqueous Phase (or the top of your list) of your formulation is fine. When you get to the oils, choose a couple of good carrier oils with the Triglycerides (for instance Jojoba Oil (5%), Sweet Almond Oil (5%) and Triglycerides (5%) and Vitamine E T50 (2%) as your base. Add to it the Olivem and heat to dissolve. Eliminate the other oils from your formula. WIth Olivem there is no need for Stearic Acid or Cetyl Alcohol … The Xanthan Gum in your aqueous phase will help stabilize it at 6% to form a nice cream.Eliminate the Shea and Mango butters, Sodium Citrate, Triethanolamine, Citric Acid.Keep the Allantoin. Your Phenoxyethanol is low at 0.5%. Better if you use Optiphen (Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic Acid & EHG) at 1.0% to 1.5%.So, a nice, clean formulation would be:Aqueous Phase:Distilled Water: QS
Vitamin B3 Niacinamide: 2%
Glycerin :1.5%
Xanthan Gum: 0.2%
Aloe vera powder 200:1 : 0.3%
Sodium-L-Lactate: 2%Oil Phase:Jojoba Oil 5%Sweet Almond Oil 5%Triglycerides 5%Vitamin E T50 2%Olivem 1000 6%Heat Water Phase and Oil Phase to 65C, combine under continuous high shear to form an emulsion.Cool to 35C and add ingredients in Actives Phase, on at a time, with stirring to incorporate.Actives Phase:Allantoin 0.5%Bearberry Extract 1.5%Licorice Extract 4%Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate 3%Phenoxyethanol/Sorbic Acid/EHG 1.5%Check pH. Adjust pH to 6.5 with Sodium Lactate or Citric Acid as required.Hope that helps. -
I can see that just one ingredient - the papaya extract - will cause problems, you have it at 1% which is double the recommended limit. It is an enzymatic exfoliant and also increases penetration of other ingredients into the dermis.
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Thanks a lot for your kindness and spend time for me MarkBroussard.
I will try on it today (: -
Hi Belassi,
Thanks for your info. My skin is sensitive, however i have been took care of it well. get back 1 month ago it was very smooth(Eating 0.5kg papaya every days???). I read somewhere it said Papaya is good for healing and whitening as well. That’s why i thought it is a good ingredient. Now I know it is cause my problem…I will tell you if there is anything new without papaya extract in next formula (^__^) -
Papaya dissolves the dead skin cells - it is used as an enzymatic exfoliant, typically at 0.5% concentration. Eating it and applying it topically will have different effects.
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Anna,
To “whiten up” your cream, you can add 2% Glycol Stearate (not Glycol Distearate - there is a big difference!).In addition to making your cream more white, Glycol Stearate is a fatting agent, that will also provide benefits to the skin and will improve the sensorial of your cream … less oily feeling. Take care in that it may also have a thickening effect and perhaps some soaping. In that case, reduce down to 1%. You’ll have to play around with it, but generally 1% to 2% is an appropriate amount. -
MarkBroussard!
I am much apreciated of your helps. You are so kind. I will make a practice follow your suggestion on 25th and I will let you know the result ( I must be brave to test on my face again (: ) -
Hi MarkBroussard,
What is big different between Glycol Stearate and Glycol Distearate ?i have search on Australia supplier or in makingcosmetic.com they only sell Glycol Distearate.
Do you know where to buy Glycol Stearate ?
Thanks ! -
Yes, for small quantities you can purchase Glycol Stearate from http://www.ingredientstodiefor.com … they are based in Austin, Texas.
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Mark, thank you. I have about 5Kg of what is labelled “Glycol Distearate” that I bought for pearlising, but I quickly discovered it didn’t pearlise, just made the shampoo gooey. Looks like it must have been a supplier error and it’s really glycol stearate.
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@Belassi that sounds more like glyceryl stearate to me; in my experience, glycol stearate and glycol distearate are both effective pearlisers in shampoo/surfactant bases
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Yes, both Glycol Stearate and Glycol Distearate are pearlizers and thickeners. Glycol Distearate is made from Ethylene Glycol … based on Anna’s formula, I surmised that she was formulating in the natural realm and would want to avoid PEG derivatives.
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Thanks Bill. I think I will just have to throw it away, otherwise be unsure.
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Hi MarkBroussard
I am testing the formula as your suggestion for 3 days. I change a little bit.
Xanthan Gum: 0.2% to 1.5% (I thought 0.2 is not enough to thicken). ( next time should reduce to 1%).
Olivem 1000 6% to 7%
Vitamin E T50 2% reduce to 1%There is no burning feeling any more. No pimple or oil (i think it control my oil skin, good view). however , After applying, there is 2 small problems:
1. a little sticky feeling when you touch on
2. the tighten feeling on my skin whole day. ( like when use apply white egg, or yoghourt ,after 7 minutes (not 20 minute , it drys and have tighten feeling on your skin.). This is really uncomfortable feeling.
3. I amusing IKa werke stirrer. When mix them together and stir. The speed i set up is about 1300pr, after 5 minutes, reduce to 900 pr .(Sometimes i increase it o 1100px for 1 minutes). When add Active agent (cool down phase), i reduce to 500pr. THE PROBLEM IS rather lexible than normal cream (thicker cream than normal, do you think reduce xanthan Gum will resolve problem?).I don’t have the Viscosity meter yet. Must i need it to check?4. You asked me ” why there are too much ingredients in my former formula”. I was wondering (eg..DIOR that i had been using)( Or i check other brands,. why there are too much ingredient in their formula ?
Thank a lot for your helps -
Yes, Anna …
(1) You are using way, way too much Xanthan Gum … 0.2% Xanthan with Olivem at 6% will produce a nice, stable cream.(2) You can reduce the stickiness by either cutting down on the Glycerin or adding about 3% C12,15 Alkyl Benzoate to your emulsion. Cutting down on the Xanthan will also help.(3) Do you have a homogenizer? Perhaps you are not forming a good emulsion if you are just stirring for 5 minutes or so. Also, I would continue mixing throughout your cool down phase at high speed. Much better if you use a homogenizer.Generally, if someone is using too many ingredients, imho, it’s because they do have a clear definition of exactly what they want their product to do, so they just keep throwing additional ingredients in the mix. But, that’s just my opinion. -
Hi MarkBroussard
Yes it is exactly as you said. less sticky now. I still have 1 more question (involving from my first formula to now, however totally forgot to ask you in previous message.)
1.There is “jelly”( touch and feel) on my skin when I wash off my face like there is a layer cover my face( of course when i wash off it, it smooth). What was that? I haven’t see that from other skin care products i used before ?
2. other skin care product absorb to skin very quickly without white (as seen in cleanser,). I have this problem. I tried to search on the internet but did not see the result.
Thanks Mark -
Yes, Olivem-based creams do tend to give a tight feeling on the face as they tend to form a barrier film, that’s what the “jelly” you are referring to is.
If your cream is “soaping” … white on the skin when you rub it in, cut down the amount of the Olivem 1000 and/or cut down on the Triglycerides, or eliminate the Triglycerides altogether. That should reduce the soaping effect.You’ll have to play around with it a bit at this point to get the sensorial you’re looking for. -
You could add a little dimethicone to reduce the whitening during the application.
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@markbroussard Glycol Stearate=glyceril mono stearate?
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No, easy to get confused with these three:Glycol Stearate = Glycol Stearate … a thickener and pearlizerGlyceryl Stearate = Glyceryl Monostearate … an emulsifier
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