Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Which silicones are better at de-tacking Aristoflex AVC?

  • Which silicones are better at de-tacking Aristoflex AVC?

    Posted by raiyana on May 28, 2021 at 11:52 am

    Hello all..

    I’m making an emulsion with Aristoflex AVC and Arlacel 165.
    I’ve tested separately:
    >>0.35% Aristoflex AVC in water to 100
    >>1.5% Arlacel 165 in water to 100

    I found both to have a bit of a sticky afterfeel when applied to skin. Arlacel 165 stickiness disappeared after some time, but Aristoflex stickiness lasted longer.

    Which silicone is better at de-tacking the sticky feel of Aristoflex avc and arlacel 165?

    I’ve used 0.5% dimethicone 350 and 2.5% cyclopentasiloxane, but still have that sticky after-feel. Not too much, but enough to bother me. Are these silicones not enough? Should i up dimethicone?

    Other ingredients include (mix of Butylene glycol + glycerin) at 2.5%, some cetyl alcohol to add body, some CCT and niacinamide and the rest is just water, preservative

    Thank you in advance!

    ngarayeva001 replied 3 years, 5 months ago 5 Members · 7 Replies
  • 7 Replies
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    May 28, 2021 at 7:03 pm

    This is a first time I hear someone describing Aristoflex as sticky. It’s probably something else in the formula not aristoflex.

  • raiyana

    Member
    May 29, 2021 at 1:07 pm

    This is a first time I hear someone describing Aristoflex as sticky. It’s probably something else in the formula not aristoflex.

    I tried aristoflex avc in water and tested it on my skin. it felt a bit sticky, not as sticky as glycerin, but i felt like i had to do something to get rid of that. its probably worth to mention that i dont prefer sticky, moist finishing.. really dont like it. i like smooth, matte finishing on the skin  :#

    i have tried this formula instead:

    dimethicone 350 … 1
    cyclopentasiloxane … 2
    arlacel 165 … 2
    cetyl alcohol … 1.5
    aristoflex avc … 0.35
    the rest is water, preservative and butylene glycol.

    I like the result of this one better. it’s been almost 2 days and the emulsion looks okay.

    but i’m wondering if arlacel 165 at 2% enough to hold 3% silicones?

    Thanks @ngarayeva001

  • raiyana

    Member
    May 29, 2021 at 1:32 pm

    and if you dont mind, @ngarayeva001 , i have 1 more question  :#

    My order c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer just arrived and i’m excited to try it. i read from an older post in this forum its one of your favourites.

    If i were to swap aristoflex avc with c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer in the same formula, should i do a 1-1 swap to achieve the same viscosity? which one would generally give a thicker viscosity if both used at the same percentage?

    i know i can experiment myself to get the answer, but i just bought very tiny amount (to save cost! :s ) so i wanna be more confident before experimenting. 

  • ggpetrov

    Member
    May 30, 2021 at 5:06 am

    I found the Lotionpro 165 has a sticky and waxy feeling, even with a very low lipid phase. 

  • jemolian

    Member
    May 30, 2021 at 6:50 am

    @raiyana
    Aristoflex AVC just has a very slight tack to it, so it depends on your sensory modifier that you choose sometimes. If not change a polymeric emulsifier if you find it intolerant. I’m in a humid country in SEA, so i have more issues with the glycerin compared to the Aristoflex AVC. I’m fine with using the Aristoflex at a higher percentage since i prefer how firm it is. My emulsions are fast spreading, so the tackiness is not particularly significant unless i layer 2 times or more. 

    The Aristoflex AVC would help with co-emulsification since you can make emulsifier free gel creams with it, but the c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer would help with the water phase stabilization. Hard to say if the 165 would hold up or not. 

    If you prefer a matte finish on the skin, you might just want to try out Montanov 202 or other matte finish emulsifiers or additives. 

    For the c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer that you mentioned, you can’t replace it 1:1 since you have to see which grade you are using. You can try at 50% of AVC in water to check the viscosity if it reaches your expectations at the pH that you need. 

  • Pattsi

    Member
    May 30, 2021 at 7:07 am

    by c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer you mean Ultrez21 or the pre-neutralized one?
    Ultrez21 gives more viscosity than Aristoflex avc, you can try 0.3 - 0.5.
    I find pure Aristoflex avc sticky at > 0.7,you can try adding mattifying ester and/or silicone elastomer. 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    June 4, 2021 at 6:39 am

    @raiyana, I guess if you find aristoflex sticky, you wouldn’t like majority of polymeric emulsifiers. Regarding C10-30, there are many materials under that INCI. I like prmulen EZ4U and Ultrez21, but they are different.

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