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What makes this formula so moisturizing?
Of all the cleasners I’ve tried that actually contain surfactants and produce foam, there is one that stands out as actually cleaning my skin without being drying whatsoever. I am trying to figure out how they did it, as I have sensitive skin which usually becomes some degree of dry after using any other cleanser. But not with this one. Here is the INCI:
Water, Glycerin, Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate, Coco-Betaine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Potassium Cocoate, Lauramidopropyl Betaine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Stellaria Media (Chickweed) Extract+ **, Alchemilla Vulgaris Leaf Extract**, Equisetum Arvense Leaf Extract**, Urtica Dioica (Nettle) Leaf Extract**, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract+, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract+, Nepeta Cataria Extract+, Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Leaf Extract+, Baptisia Tinctoria Root Extract+, Potassium Hydroxide, Sodium Chloride, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Oleate, Coco-Glucoside, Butylene Glycol, Tetrasodium EDTA, Malachite Extract, Citric Acid, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil++, Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Oil++, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil++, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil++, Limonene, Citronellol, Geraniol, Citral. *Napiers original formula.
Anything stand out to any one here? -
11 Replies
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That’s a lot of Glycerin. And a gentle surfactant. Glad you found a product that works for your skin type.
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It also has glyceryl oleate
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You can make this with fraction of their $30.
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I have been trying formulate a similar product to this but with SCI and CAPB instead. I get close but not quite as good as this one. I use a lot of glycerin too and oleate.
I did notice that there seems to potentially be a larger amount of hexandeiol than i am used to seeing, i wonder if that could have anything to do with it.
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From the user perspective, I think it is Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer. I noticed that gels with film-formers like this (or Carbomer in case of my CeraVe cleanser) leave a tiniest film on the skin and it feels less drying.
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GeorgeBenson said:I did notice that there seems to potentially be a larger amount of hexandeiol than i am used to seeing, i wonder if that could have anything to do with it.
It is a humectant.
I was just reading up on it…as maybe something to help in an irritation aspect (in a high silicone formula)…. Here is some propaganda on it:
SPI-HexG is an effective antioxidant, anti-inflammatory agent, and humectant. It is frequently used in products that contain silicones because it is an excellent coupling agent. It can be used at lower concentrations than many other coupling agents, therefore reducing its irritation likeliness. SPI-HexG shows interesting properties to boost the antimicrobial efficacy of many common preservatives.
I use a dab of it already…but thinking about upping it.
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It’s mainly the surfactants + humectants. The Glyceryl Oleate will also give it a slightly moisturizing effect.
My foaming face wash is just made with the mild foaming surfactants + propanediol + preservative.
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to @toketsu ‘s point , there’s a J&J patent suggesting certain polymers can reduce irritation potential in surfactant systems: https://patents.google.com/patent/US7803403B2/en
I do think the surfactant choice and use of glycerin play a role as well, but I’m curious what has the most impact
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If you break the formula down to the functional core:
Water, Glycerin, Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate, Coco-Betaine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Potassium Cocoate, Lauramidopropyl Betaine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer …
Most all the other ingredients are likely include below 1%. Glycerin is included at a higher percentage than any of the surfactants (individually) which is quite unusual in a cleanser. -
Hello @MarkBroussard.Glycerin appears as the second ingredient on the INCI deck so this means this cleansers will moisturize more than cleanse right?
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Ghita37 said:Hello @MarkBroussard.Glycerin appears as the second ingredient on the INCI deck so this means this cleansers will moisturize more than cleanse right?
It means that it will mitigate the action of surfactants. Glycerin in large amount works similarly as sorbitol.
toketsu said:From the user perspective, I think it is Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer. I noticed that gels with film-formers like this (or Carbomer in case of my CeraVe cleanser) leave a tiniest film on the skin and it feels less drying.I noticed that too when I use a shampoo thickened with carbomer. It forms a light film on the hair surface making it thicker
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