Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating General Science What is a basic question about beauty products you want to know the answer to?

  • OldPerry

    Member
    June 8, 2021 at 8:56 pm

    This is an interesting review of the research in the effectiveness of sunscreens. https://sciencebasedmedicine.org/the-great-sunscreen-cover-up/  But it doesn’t get to the nitty gritty of the sunscreen scenario I proposed.  

    This study is supposed to be the “proof” that daily sunscreen use is effective. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21135266/

  • Pattsi

    Member
    June 9, 2021 at 5:19 am
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    June 9, 2021 at 6:33 am

    @Perry, I use sunscreen religiously and apply it as recommended (half of teaspoon on face and neck), yet my face is MUCH darker than, say, my shoulders that aren’t exposed to the sun. And yes I apply it in winter every day and even at home in summer. I only use large brands like L’Oreal and always spf 50. So unfortunately, it tells me there’s no guarantee that it will slow down aging. But still doing it just in case.

  • DaveStone

    Member
    August 10, 2021 at 5:43 am

    What are the scientifically supported anti-aging ingredients (if there are any)?

  • Graillotion

    Member
    August 10, 2021 at 6:07 am

    DaveStone said:

    What are the scientifically supported anti-aging ingredients (if there are any)?

    Genetics.

  • Pattsi

    Member
    August 10, 2021 at 11:00 am

    DaveStone said:

    What are the scientifically supported anti-aging ingredients (if there are any)?

    Plastic surgery.

  • DaveStone

    Member
    August 10, 2021 at 10:53 pm

    LOL, true. But isn’t Retinol highly valued around here? I haven’t read anyone put down Niancimide either.

  • OldPerry

    Member
    August 10, 2021 at 11:17 pm

    @DaveStone - retinol & niacinamide are probably your best bet.

    I’m skeptical most consumers would actually notice too much more improvement vs a daily moisturizer.  I’ve seen how bad consumers really are at noticing subtle improvements, especially over time.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    August 10, 2021 at 11:59 pm

    DaveStone said:

    LOL, true. But isn’t Retinol highly valued around here? I haven’t read anyone put down Niancimide either.

    I think Niacinamide has a reasonably warm welcome here among many.  The reason it is not discussed might simply be, it is widely accepted, like glycerin, so no need.  Just look at most of the formulas posted…it is common place.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    August 11, 2021 at 12:25 am

    What amino acids have a place in skin care?  Which have some data to back-up their claimed benefits?

  • RedCoast

    Member
    August 11, 2021 at 3:22 am
    I can think of several questions:
    1. Whether applying antioxidant serums before applying sunscreen actually slows down skin aging/sun damage.
    2. Whether adding antioxidants in sunscreens helps slow down skin aging/sun damage.
    3. Whether applying antioxidants twice a day is even sufficient. It’s entirely possible the antioxidant “network” could get exhausted. It may be 3-4x a day (or more) for maximum benefits.
    4. Whether applying antioxidants even “works” at all, and if so, would the formulation be too difficult/time-consuming to use or apply?
    5. Whether ceramides in micro- or nanoemulsions (with or without other sufficient penetration enhancers) would actually help those with atopic dermatitis and other skin conditions… and whether they are still inferior to petrolatum and other well-established ingredients.

    Okay… maybe they’re not basic questions, but this is something that’s been bugging me for a while. Particularly since Skinceuticals released their Vitamin C serum.

  • raveena

    Member
    August 18, 2021 at 1:06 am

    Vitamin C please Perry. How could I keep it from degrading while formulating with the C. I would like to create a serum with C for as brightening and toning serum. I have read how it can degrade easily. 
    Is it the packaging?

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    August 18, 2021 at 10:48 am

    DaveStone said:

    What are the scientifically supported anti-aging ingredients (if there are any)?

    closing time

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    August 18, 2021 at 10:40 pm

    @Perry, I can answer the third question with a usual caveat: depends against what. If it’s to profect against a sunburn, then no, because glass blocks UVB. If against tanning, 100% yes, you must wear sunscreen indoors. I live in the UK and work from home. My busy season (at my day job) falls on summer, which means I barely leave my apartment in summer (uv index in the uk in winter is zero). My hands are different color because one hand is covered by my laptop. The hand that moves the mouse is darker. Moreover, I have an small age spot on it. I sit in front of the window and apply sunscreen on my face indoors, but I can’t bother applying it on my hands.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    August 18, 2021 at 10:43 pm

    DaveStone said:

    What are the scientifically supported anti-aging ingredients (if there are any)?

    Genetics.

    Guys, you are underestimating tretinoin.

  • Abdullah

    Member
    August 19, 2021 at 8:29 am

    RedCoast said:

    I can think of several questions:
    1. Whether applying antioxidant serums before applying sunscreen actually slows down skin aging/sun damage.
    2. Whether adding antioxidants in sunscreens helps slow down skin aging/sun damage.
    3. Whether applying antioxidants twice a day is even sufficient. It’s entirely possible the antioxidant “network” could get exhausted. It may be 3-4x a day (or more) for maximum benefits.
    4. Whether applying antioxidants even “works” at all, and if so, would the formulation be too difficult/time-consuming to use or apply?
    5. Whether ceramides in micro- or nanoemulsions (with or without other sufficient penetration enhancers) would actually help those with atopic dermatitis and other skin conditions… and whether they are still inferior to petrolatum and other well-established ingredients.

    Okay… maybe they’re not basic questions, but this is something that’s been bugging me for a while. Particularly since Skinceuticals released their Vitamin C serum.

    @@RedCoast low pH stimulates the body to produce ceramides. 

  • suswang8

    Member
    August 20, 2021 at 4:11 pm

    Question:
    Does an emulsion help active ingredients penetrate any better into the skin than, say, an aqueous gel?  In other words, if you had 3% niacinamide in your typical emulsion vs the same 3% niacinamide in a lipid-free gel. 

  • em88

    Member
    September 9, 2021 at 8:00 am

    My basic question is why such an amazing humectant as urea isn’t very popular? Is it because it’s tricky to formulate with or marketing?

    Tricky? More like difficult, especially at higher concentrations and in combination with other acidic active ingredients.:smile: 

  • Emotelle

    Member
    September 11, 2021 at 7:40 am

    My very basic question is how professional contract manufacturers sterilize their bottles? How many steps if washing or sterilizing do they going thru? From jars, glass, cosmetic tubes, to all sorts of containers, perfume bottles and different shapes, as well airless bottles.

    Are cosmetic tubes only fillable using special fill in machines or pumps? 

    I’ve always been curious how manufacturers clean their cosmetic tubes and packaging as it’s probably impossible to wash them first (e.g tubes). Then how do they ensure no dirt, or dust inside that might possibly contamination your product?

  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 11, 2021 at 2:11 pm
    Bottles and containers aren’t sterilized. Cosmetic manufacturing is sanitary, not sterile. You are not working in an environment such as a laminar flow hood where you could maintain sterility.
    Packaging components should be stored in closed containers and inspected for gross contamination before use. They are generally sprayed down with 70% IPA and allowed to dry.
    Traditional tubes do require specialized equipment to seal. There are smaller systems but they as much slower than standard equipment. There are containers more properly called tottles which do not require heat sealing.
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    September 13, 2021 at 9:13 pm

    @em88 there’s a couple of tricks: if you don’t need more than 10% go for water in oil. Then pH doesn’t matter. If you need it be be oil and water and or at high concentration, keep pH at 6, add lactic acid buffer and predissolve urea in propylene glycol (60c). Arlacel 165 is a good choice of an emulsifier. 

  • ketchito

    Member
    September 14, 2021 at 4:53 pm

    Are all preservatives effective during the full shelf life of an unopened cosmetic (especificaly, water based)? If not, why isn’t this check-up a normal part of the formulation process? 

  • OldPerry

    Member
    September 14, 2021 at 5:52 pm

    @ketchito - no, they are not always effective during the full life of the product. It IS suggested that you check preservative efficacy during stability tests to ensure that it remains effective over the life of the product.  In our stability testing protocol we did microbial checks at 12 weeks for RT and 45C samples.

  • ketchito

    Member
    September 16, 2021 at 12:57 pm

    Thank you @Perry!

  • Svemirska_baklava

    Member
    September 16, 2021 at 2:31 pm

    What in your opinion would be the best preservative system to use in cosmetic lotions and creams?
    Also, regarding Geogard 221,I tryed using it in probably more then 10 different products, but after microbiological testing always found it inadequate to effectively preserve formulation on it’s own. What would the best natural preservative be in your own accord? 

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