Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating General What does skin protectant do?

  • What does skin protectant do?

    Posted by Abdullah on October 13, 2021 at 4:18 pm

    For example
    dimethicone 1%
    glycerin 20%
    petroleum 30%
    Cocoa butter 50% are OTC skin protectants.

     What does these ingredients at these percentages do that they are named skin protectants? 

    Abdullah replied 3 years, 1 month ago 6 Members · 15 Replies
  • 15 Replies
  • vitalys

    Member
    October 13, 2021 at 6:00 pm

    They protect Stratum Corneum from TEWL - the major factor that defines the normal function of the entire skin and its normal physiology. 

  • Paprik

    Member
    October 13, 2021 at 6:04 pm

    Those will create an occlusive layer on the skin that protects the skin. 
    Protects it from TEWL, should calm it/sooth, hydrate it, etc … 

    That is how I would explain it to myself. 

  • Abdullah

    Member
    October 14, 2021 at 2:05 am

    @Paprik @vitalys how can 1% dimethicone compet with 30% petrolatum for TEWL? 
    Skin protection maybe something else. 

  • vitalys

    Member
    October 14, 2021 at 9:35 am

    @Abdullah It doesn’t compete, but works in synergy with other components. 

  • Abdullah

    Member
    October 14, 2021 at 11:21 am

    @vitalys i mean 5% petrolatum prevents 98% TEWL and dimethicone only 20-30%. So how 1% dimethicone is skin protectant and 41% petrolatum isn’t? 

  • ketchito

    Member
    October 14, 2021 at 11:45 am

    @Abdullah I wouldn’t directly compare them all, since they work in different and synergistic ways, as @vitalys mentioned. For instance, Glycerin doesn’t prevent water loss (since it’s a small molecule), but rather penetrates the skin; it works both by being a source of water and also, to aid in the recovery of the skin barrier. Dimethicone and Petrolatum both reduce TEWL (dimethicone less than petrolatum, since it’s less occlusive), and butters deliver emollients that help recover the intracellular matrix at some extent (whici inderectly reduces water loss as well). That’s why in humecting creams, you have a combination of them rather than just one.

  • Abdullah

    Member
    October 15, 2021 at 1:18 am

    @ketchito Yes what you said is correct. But my main question was what is the definition of skin protectant and what should an ingredient be able to do to call it a skin protectant.
    Any comments on this! 

  • zetein

    Member
    October 15, 2021 at 1:26 am
    (c) Calamine, 1 to 25 percent.

    (j) Kaolin, 4 to 20 percent.
    (o) Sodium bicarbonate.

    (s) Zinc acetate, 0.1 to 2 percent.
    (t) Zinc carbonate, 0.2 to 2 percent.
    (u) Zinc oxide, 1 to 25 percent.

    These can also be claimed as skin protectant…But I don’t think they would reduce TEWL. On the contrary it can be very drying.

  • vitalys

    Member
    October 15, 2021 at 1:44 am

    @Abdullah A skin protectant is a substance or a mix of substances that maintain the skin barriers. 

  • Abdullah

    Member
    October 15, 2021 at 1:50 am

    @zetein exactly

  • Abdullah

    Member
    October 15, 2021 at 1:53 am

    @vitalys and what is that barrier doing?

    For example if the barrier is attracting water we call it humectant.
    If the barrier is preventing water loss we call it occlusive.

    What should a barrier do to call it skin protectant? 
    If protection then protection from what? 

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    October 15, 2021 at 10:54 am
  • ketchito

    Member
    October 15, 2021 at 12:10 pm

    @Abdullah My apologies, I missed the point of your question. the skin barrier is our body’s natural defense that protects the skin from foreign agents (eg., pathogens, allergens, particles, etc.). To put it simply, it’s a very tight arrangemet of fats and humectants. Because of this tight arrangement of mainly fats, water and ions transport is only possible through specific channels (aquaporines). 

    The humectants (wether occlussives, emollients, hydrating agents) work to recover/improve this natural barrier.  

  • vitalys

    Member
    October 15, 2021 at 1:11 pm

    @Abdullah , @ketchito explained it perfectly regarding the barriers. 
    The skin barriers determine the key function of the human skin - protection of the entire body. In fact it is like a State boarder with all its soldiers, officers, boarder control, security systems, customs, etc. Thus, so called protectants fortify the boarder forces. 

  • Abdullah

    Member
    October 15, 2021 at 2:25 pm

    Thank you all 

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