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Water soluble Fragrances vs Oil soluble FO’s…. pros and cons……
I have a project that has taken me down a new back alley in cosmetics. I have for the first time ever…. needed Water soluble fragrances.
I understand I can just solubilize the OS FO’s into the potion, but I am trying to keep an INCI below 5 entries.
My vendor has 500+ OS FO’s. They have less than 25 WS fragrances. That tells me right up front….something is up.
What can I expect…. from water soluble versions….that might sneak up to bite me? Duration? Would love to hear someone extol on the differences.
Aloha.
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3 Replies
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Hello,
My supplier sells water soluble fragrances which come under the INCI parfum/aroma. They come with IFRA certificates and Declarations of Allergens, so one can decide if using or not.
They are alcohol based, and I’ve used three of them (melon, mango, strawberry) in face cleansers, shower gels and shampoos for the family. The scent doesn’t/didn’t fade over time- I’ve kept samples and checked that. The children used the products as well, and no skin-issues apperead.
I assume there are fewer of these on the market for two reasons: the oil-based ones are more versatile (most of them can be used also in candles, soap, etc), and the fear many formulators have regarding the use of alcohol in cosmetic products, no matter the %.
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To my understanding, the more soluble fragrances (I wouldn’t call them water-soluble since they don’t readily mix with only water to form a clear solution) usually use more solubilizer than the heavier fragrances, and also have smaller and more polar molecules than the other type. They are mostly useful for surfactant-based cleansing products and clear products in general where the main solvent is water.
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I received my samples (WS FO’s) last night. The first one I tried turned by crystal clear water/ethanol/fairy dust….. very milky. I was rather disappointed.
Not a deal breaker…. as I don’t plan to package in clear bottles.
I was advised by my mentor to just use my old standbys (OS FO’s) + SOLUBILISANT LRI …. but I had such a magically short and beautiful LOI….I did not want to mess it up. 😉
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