Water soluble Anti irritant that works at low pH

Formulating

Water soluble Anti irritant that works at low pH

Posted by Shams on November 7, 2022 at 10:53 pm

Hi everyone
I am formulating an AHA/BHA peel with a final pH of around 3.5
Looking to add any anti irritant that can work at that low pH.
I tried Aloe vera, but i noticed a jell-like precipitate forming at the end. I did a knock out and it was the aloe vera..so no Aloe
I tried chamomile powder 20:1 , the same happened.
Allantoin works around pH 4-6 I believe, so that might not be an option either.
Any other suggestions, please ?
Thanks in advance

fareloz replied 1 year, 11 months ago 6 Members · 10 Replies
10 Replies

Paprik

Member
November 7, 2022 at 11:11 pm

I believe Allantoin tolerates low ph. You can stick with that.
Quick google search shows pH stability 3 - 8.

Also, I am using Allantoin in my Glycolic acid HA gel peel. So it MUST be correct

Another one could be Alpha-Bisabolol.
Also shows to be stable between 3 - 11.
Shams

Member
November 17, 2022 at 10:12 pm

@Paprik. Thanks for that.
alpha bisabolol is oil soluble and I need to avoid oils in my formula
would you kindly tell me at what % are you using allantoin? Doesn’t it recrystallise?
I have tried it at only 0.2% and have a feeling that a turbid hazzy fine layer is developing at the bottom . However it goes away with minimal shaking. So i was suspecting that’s allantoin
TIA
Paprik

Member
November 17, 2022 at 10:39 pm

Whoops, sorry about the Alpha-Bisabolol.

The typical input is up to 0.5%. Although there is no upper limit in EU/NZ/AUS, I believe USA guys were saying that over 0.5% it’s being considered OTC (?).
I usually stick to 0.2 - 0.3% in daily product and 0.5% if it’s something like acid peel or a soothing product).

You will need to heat your formula a bit to dissolve the Allantoin.
[Lot of ppl have problems with Allantoin precipitate in the formula though.
Not sure how to deal with that as I never had this issue.]
Shams

Member
November 17, 2022 at 10:44 pm

Thanks @Paprik
ariepfadli

Member
November 30, 2022 at 7:06 pm

I used allantoin and sprinkle zinc PCA
DeedeeUkulele

Member
December 1, 2022 at 12:41 am

Shams said:

@Paprik. Thanks for that.
alpha bisabolol is oil soluble and I need to avoid oils in my formula
would you kindly tell me at what % are you using allantoin? Doesn’t it recrystallise?
I have tried it at only 0.2% and have a feeling that a turbid hazzy fine layer is developing at the bottom . However it goes away with minimal shaking. So i was suspecting that’s allantoin
TIA

You’ll need to heat allantoin to 80°C to make sure it’s completely dissolved. I’ve never had issues with it that way.
Jasmine2

Member
December 12, 2022 at 10:12 pm

I use allantoin. Been using it everytime I make products with AHA. No recrystallization issues and no instability whatsover. I use mine at 0.5%.
fareloz

Member
December 13, 2022 at 10:33 am

I also use Allantoin. If you have good grade of it, it dissolves with no issues and mostly no heating. I usually add 0.5% of water content in my product.
fareloz

Member
December 13, 2022 at 10:34 am

ariepfadli said:

I used allantoin and sprinkle zinc PCA

I checked my supplier, Zinc PCA requires 4.0-6.0 pH otherwise side effects will happen
fareloz

Member
December 13, 2022 at 10:36 am

The question is: do you really want to add anti-irritant? It seems like you want to mix unmixable things. It’s like shampoo and conditioner in one bottle canceling each other. Maybe wiser would be to have 2 different products: one AHA (I guess it is a peeling) product and one soothing afterward?