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water in silicone serum
Hi guys! It’s me the rookie again. Recently I’m quite interesting in formulating water-in-silicone serum. I’ve searched google online, but there’s limited info in formulating in this kind of formulation. Where can I study more about formulating water-in-silicone based?
Last time I’ve tried formulating a serum, but it always appeared to be slightly ‘separated’. There’s a thin layer of oil above and the appearance looks “fluffy” with air bubbles trapped on top.
Here’s glance of my formulation:
Tetrasodium EDTA 0.02%
Niacinamide 2%
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate 0.5%
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate 5%
Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate 10%
RO Water 37%
Phenoxyethanol 0.5%
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Cyclohexasiloxane 16%
PEG-10 Dimethicone 5%
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene 11%
Vit E 0.5%
Sunflower Seed Oil 2%
Dimethicone 3%
Isohexadecane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 3%
Retinol 0.3%
Fragrance 0.15%
I’ve try to slightly modified the ratio of PEG-10 Dimethicone and the % of oil/water phase, but the serum became separated and very watery. Any help will be appreciated! Thanks in advanced! ????
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4 Replies
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There are so many anomalies here I don’t know where to start. (Galactomyces Filtrate? Say wha’??) Just briefly, you need a salt to stabilize, you need to increase the total water content and you need to switch your ethoxylated silane emulsifier to a more alkyl modified one -and use less of it - since you have organic lipids involved. Go in peace and do no harm.
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Hi Matt, as I mentioned I’m still a rookie in cosmetics. ???? I’m adding in the galactomyces ferment filtrate cz it helps brightening dull skin and enhancing moisture barrier. Btw appreciated your kind advice! and one more question, when I increased the total water content, the viscosity increase and the sensory become ‘heavier’. Is there any way to avoid this problem as I prefer lower viscosity serum.
p/s: Will definitely go in peace after successfully formulating a stable formulation ????
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From a fellow-rookie: maybe an idea to remove the actives and stabilise the base-formula first. Saves you money and helps to isolate the problem.
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You can try with silicon 2 % w/w in the above said compsoiton along with polyoxyl 40 hydrogenated castor oil 1 % w/w. and the rate mixing & heat and order addition also important to stabilize the formulation.
if not works use hydrophilic silicon 2 % (e.g., DC 193) with polyoxyl 40 hydrogenated castor oil 1 % w/w.
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