Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating W/O emulsifier in oil cleanser

  • W/O emulsifier in oil cleanser

    Posted by AnnaK on July 30, 2023 at 7:57 am

    I have a oil cleanser that is composed of 100% seed oils. I’m experimenting with adding Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate and Polyglyceryl–2 Sesquioleate.

    I’m curious to know what concentrations of Polyglyceryl–2 Sesquioleate can be used in this formula. Recommended usage concentration 2.0 – 4.0% as primary emulsifier 0.5 – 2.0% as co-emulsifier in W/O formulations 0.5 – 1.0% as film former in O/W formulations. However, it can be used for oil phases from 15- 35% (ideally 25 – 30%). Max. 5% vegetable oils, in combination with medium or (ideally) nonpolar oils should be used.

    Does that mean I could use 15 - 35% percent Polyglyceryl–2 Sesquioleate in the oil cleanser, or is the max 4%? If anyone could explain this to me I would be most grateful.

    AnnaK replied 1 year, 3 months ago 2 Members · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    July 30, 2023 at 3:48 pm

    @annak:

    You’ll have to play around with it. Start at 1%, see how you like the performance and then gradually increase until you hit your sweet spot in terms of rinse-off and skin sensorials. Some of these surfactants you can use up to 15% and others will give you unpleasant results at anything above 2% … they’re all different. Also depends if you are trying to get it to “milk” when you add water for rinse-off.

  • AnnaK

    Member
    July 31, 2023 at 9:00 am

    @MarkBroussard Thank you, that makes sense. I’ll gradually increase until I get that “milk” rinse off I’m looking for.

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