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Vitamin C esters
Hello!
In trying to chose which ester to use in a lotion that I am creating to (hopefully) help with hyperpigmentation, I came across some information that said that the oil soluble esters display greater antioxidant activity and can more easily penetrate the skin. Thoughts?
Also, I found a supplier that sells “Ethyl Ascorbic Acid”, described as water and oil soluble and as “working on all three levels of skin lightening”. I have not been able to find much information on this ester.
So apart from the solubility questions, are all esters created equal? Or do some offer better activity in terms of oxidative stress or melanin inhibition, for example?Thanks for your feedback! -
3 Replies
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The Ester-C that is often sold is a Calcium Ascorbate-Calcium Threonate complex bound with an ester bond between the two.
I think the original Ester C is under patent, but I think Monarch sells a version of the Calcium Ascorbate Calcium Threonate but unsure whether this is just a blend of Ascorbate and Threonate or whether this is actually ester-bonded.
I’ve only worked with this material in dietary supplements creating a chewable tablet so am unable to advise on the rest of your questions
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I had a situation where I am faced with two ester-cs. One is magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) and the other is sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP). I chose the latter since literature says that SAP is more water soluble than MAP. Unlike Vitaamin C, SAP and MAP are more stable and does not turn yellowish, especially when used in emulsion.
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good article on various forms of vit-c here:
http://thebeautybrains.com/2014/05/which-kind-of-vitamin-c-is-best-for-skin-the-beauty-brains-show-episode-31/
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