Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating two phase hair conditioner

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  • two phase hair conditioner

    Posted by Robert on November 10, 2022 at 10:27 am

    I have a project to produce two phase conditioner, the upper phase is emulsion state, the lower phase is transparent liquid phase, I tried w/o and o/w systems  base and decreased emulsifiers percentage to make it separated but the lower part never been transparent, it is separated in translucent phase and lotion phase, any suggestion will be appreciated 

    Robert replied 2 years ago 4 Members · 9 Replies
  • 9 Replies
  • KMRCSMiami

    Member
    November 11, 2022 at 6:56 pm

    Hi, please provide the formula and operating procedure for the bi-phase product. Although, I’m pretty confident I have a good idea what is wrong here. 

  • Robert

    Member
    December 6, 2022 at 10:23 am

    very simple formula:
    cyclopentasiloxane 15%
    Dimethicone 1%
    Cetrimonium chloride 1%
    water to 100
    Salt 0.25%

    I tried many formulas but never give the lotion phase and transparent phase.
    this is a leave-in hair conditioning formulation by the way.
    target product should take 4 or 5 hours to start separation and separation should be transparent from the beginning no place for blurred phase.

    any one can help it will be very appreciated @Pharma @PhilGeis

  • ketchito

    Member
    December 6, 2022 at 10:21 pm

    @Robert You could solve the issue if you remove Cetrimonium chloride, but I don’t think i’d hold for 4-5h till separation. You could try increasing your salt (you could even add some phosphates) and adding some ethanol. 

  • Abdullah

    Member
    December 7, 2022 at 2:01 am

    What you want to make is an unstable emulsion that do creaming after 4 hours. 

    I would say remove NACL or add higher amount to make it more unstable. 

    Or use spdma instead of Cetrimonium chloride at higher pH and it will separate more easily. 

  • Robert

    Member
    December 7, 2022 at 6:35 am

    ketchito said:

    @Robert You could solve the issue if you remove Cetrimonium chloride, but I don’t think i’d hold for 4-5h till separation. You could try increasing your salt (you could even add some phosphates) and adding some ethanol. 

    If I removed Cetrimonium chloride i can not got an emulsion phase upside, it will separate immediately to oil phase and liquid phase.
    Regards phosphate why should I add it?
    I tried Ethanol and it has not work, 

  • Robert

    Member
    December 7, 2022 at 6:38 am

    Abdullah said:

    What you want to make is an unstable emulsion that do creaming after 4 hours. 

    I would say remove NACL or add higher amount to make it more unstable. 

    Or use spdma instead of Cetrimonium chloride at higher pH and it will separate more easily. 

    thats right, what is SPDMA?

  • Abdullah

    Member
    December 7, 2022 at 9:40 am

    stearamidopropyl dimethylamine

  • ketchito

    Member
    December 7, 2022 at 11:05 am

    @Robert Did you check for products on the market to see how they do? Most biphasic comercial products have non polar emollients, water and inorganic salts. Inorganic salts (like chlorides and phosphates) are added as density balancing agents, to temporarily create a mixture once you shake the bottle, and delay phase separation. 

    Cetrimonium chloride being water soluble, will try to emulsify part of your silicones, and bring that to the water phase (that’s why you don’t have a clear water phase). If you want to add an emulsifier to delay phase separation even further, choose one that has same affinity for both phases  and at very low level (let’s say at 0.05% total active matter).

  • Robert

    Member
    December 7, 2022 at 12:39 pm

    ketchito said:

    @Robert Did you check for products on the market to see how they do? Most biphasic comercial products have non polar emollients, water and inorganic salts. Inorganic salts (like chlorides and phosphates) are added as density balancing agents, to temporarily create a mixture once you shake the bottle, and delay phase separation. 

    Cetrimonium chloride being water soluble, will try to emulsify part of your silicones, and bring that to the water phase (that’s why you don’t have a clear water phase). If you want to add an emulsifier to delay phase separation even further, choose one that has same affinity for both phases  and at very low level (let’s say at 0.05% total active matter).

    as @Abdullah mentioned the target product should be unstable emulsion base and it will give creaming after couple of hours, the market has some products and they include high percnetage of silicons and there is an emulsifier also, for transparent liquid I think surfactant like betaine can do somthing here but there will be unwanted foam and do not know if it will be ok as leave-in ingredient

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