Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Thickener for body lotion

  • Thickener for body lotion

    Posted by nshu_14 on March 24, 2025 at 10:27 am

    Hello everyone,

    I am formulating a body lotion and I am facing serious issues with its viscosity. I am using the following ingredients. Would you please suggest an additional or replacement of any ingredients and the possible cause of my formulation’s low viscosity? The emulsion formed is quite low in viscosity , its like body milk. What possibly is going wrong?

    Water

    Xanthan gum (0,52%)

    Glycerin (3%)

    MCT (triglycerides) : 11%

    Stearic acid (2%)

    Cetearyl alcohol (2%)

    Butylene glycol (2%)

    Perfume (0,6%)

    Thank you in advance!

    ketchito replied 9 hours, 20 minutes ago 4 Members · 5 Replies
  • 5 Replies
  • hollis-whyte

    Member
    March 24, 2025 at 11:58 am

    In brief, it appears to me that you have rather a large oil phase with no primary emulsifier and not enough Xanthan Gum. I’m not a qualified Chemist yet though so lets see what the professionals say…

    • nshu_14

      Beginning formulator
      March 25, 2025 at 5:25 am

      Thanks though, you are right indeed. I will add in more primary emulsifiers which may balance this oil part. Looking into the natural options. If you have some in mind , please feel free to suggest.

  • Paprik

    Member
    March 24, 2025 at 2:35 pm

    1. You do not have a proper emulsifier. Stearic acid would work only as a thickener without using a base to neutralise it. Cetearyl alcohol is also a thickener/co-emulsifier.

    You build viscosity with waxy materials - 4% in total will not do much.

    2. XG seems to be on the higher input. Depends on the grade, but 0.2-0.4% is usually a good starting range.

    3. 0.6% of a fragrance might be too much and it can also break your “emulsion” and lower viscosity.

    4. I do not see any preservative!

    • nshu_14

      Beginning formulator
      March 25, 2025 at 5:23 am

      Thank you for your insights. I have glyceryl stearate. could this work as one of the main emulsifier?

      I will reduce perfume to half (0,3%). Do you think is it still on the high end?

      I bring down also XG to 0,4%

      For preservative part, do you have any recommendation? Besides phenoxyethanol (I cannot use it).

      Much appreciate your answers. Thank you.

  • ketchito

    Member
    March 25, 2025 at 6:21 am

    Glyceryl stearate is also a structuring agent, not a emulsifier. As @paprik mentioned, you need to neutralze your Stearic acido to make it work as an emulsifier.

Log in to reply.

Chemists Corner