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Thickener for body lotion
Hello everyone,
I am formulating a body lotion and I am facing serious issues with its viscosity. I am using the following ingredients. Would you please suggest an additional or replacement of any ingredients and the possible cause of my formulation’s low viscosity? The emulsion formed is quite low in viscosity , its like body milk. What possibly is going wrong?
Water
Xanthan gum (0,52%)
Glycerin (3%)
MCT (triglycerides) : 11%
Stearic acid (2%)
Cetearyl alcohol (2%)
Butylene glycol (2%)
Perfume (0,6%)
Thank you in advance!
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20 Replies
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In brief, it appears to me that you have rather a large oil phase with no primary emulsifier and not enough Xanthan Gum. I’m not a qualified Chemist yet though so lets see what the professionals say…
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Thanks though, you are right indeed. I will add in more primary emulsifiers which may balance this oil part. Looking into the natural options. If you have some in mind , please feel free to suggest.
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I find selecting a primary emulsifier and co-emulsifier can be a challenge in itself, there are so many on the market. It’s probably best therefore to research them yourself so you get the right one for your needs (unless you neutralize the stearic acid as suggested)! On a different note, I usually keep clear of natural gums and prefer acrylate polymers but perhaps I was always using too much which was where I was going wrong. We have both learned something from your post and from Ketchiko and Paprik’s advice - many thanks to them!
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1. You do not have a proper emulsifier. Stearic acid would work only as a thickener without using a base to neutralise it. Cetearyl alcohol is also a thickener/co-emulsifier.
You build viscosity with waxy materials - 4% in total will not do much.
2. XG seems to be on the higher input. Depends on the grade, but 0.2-0.4% is usually a good starting range.
3. 0.6% of a fragrance might be too much and it can also break your “emulsion” and lower viscosity.
4. I do not see any preservative!
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Thank you for your insights. I have glyceryl stearate. could this work as one of the main emulsifier?
I will reduce perfume to half (0,3%). Do you think is it still on the high end?
I bring down also XG to 0,4%
For preservative part, do you have any recommendation? Besides phenoxyethanol (I cannot use it).
Much appreciate your answers. Thank you.
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Hi again, how’s your lotion going with the Chemist’s insights? If it’s of help, I usually use 0.2% fragrance if the product is to go on the face, neck and chest because of regulations in my country.
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Hii @hollis-whyte,
I managed to obtain a good viscosity by reducing xanthan gum and increasing wax, however, now I have another issue of airy-like bubbles or seems like oil droplets, not so sure about it. Do you have any idea how I can resolve this part? I am using high shear for homogenising.
For fragrance, I am now using 0.3% which seems to be just on the limit.
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that vegetable glycerin precipitating because lack of proper stability
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Glyceryl stearate is also a structuring agent, not a emulsifier. As @paprik mentioned, you need to neutralze your Stearic acido to make it work as an emulsifier.
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Hi, may I ask if this the same for Stearic Acid SE please?
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GMS SE is just GMS that they already turned into a soap. So, if you use at lower pH’s it functions as GMS. If you use at elevated pH’s, it remains an anionic emulsifier.
So yes… you can ‘un-make’ the soap with the use of low pH.
Inolex is one of the few companies…that will actually tell the truth in their marketing blurbs (sometimes).
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This reply was modified 2 weeks, 4 days ago by Graillotion.
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Very informative, many thanks!
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This reply was modified 2 weeks, 4 days ago by
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Not a stable formula for the reasons others listed.
Xanthan gum (0,52%) Thickens and helps stabilize but not at this quantity in this formula and without an emulsifier, always try to dupe an existing recipe first before creating your own (benchmark)
Glycerin (3%) OK I actually use double but can be sticky
MCT (triglycerides) : 11% OK but a little on the high side, you need a butter too
Stearic acid (2%) OK or you can use a butter which contains steric acid, there is a reason why all lotions contain 3+ types of lipids
Cetearyl alcohol (2%) Only enough if you add an emulsifier, this will thicken as well is a co emulsifier
Butylene glycol (2%) Never used don’t know what it is
Perfume (0,6%) fragrance can be used up to 1% depending on what type and how sensitive the product is etc but I usually use a fraction of what you use…
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Thank you so much MaidenOrange Blossom for your detailed points on my formulation query.
I will accommodate your notes. Will keep everyone posted on my progress with the lotion.
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Please, neutralize your Stearic acid so it can work as an emulsifier and not as a structuring agent)…that’s the first thing you need to fix.
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Thank you. Since I am really new to the cosmetic formulation world, would you please elaborate on this, how can I do it? Neutralise prior to addition of stearic acid in the formulation or during addition of stearic acid, I instantly neutralise in a subsequent step? My apologies if its a very basic question. Its a learning platform and helpful for beginners like me. Really appreciate everyone’s insights 🙂
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No worries @nshu_14 . Usually, a base (like Sodium hydroxide) is added to the water phase. When you add the oil phase (where Stearic acid is) to the water phase, neutralization occurs.
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Thank you @ketchito 🙂 I will try the neutralisation of stearic acid. Could you please also help me with the bubbles issue? I see buubles on the spatual when I pour my lotion, its not very smooth looking. Do you think its coming from bubbles in Water + glycerin + xanthan gum? I am using Turrax homogenizer. Really appreciate your kind response. Thank you
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Gums tend not to let bubbles out, but if you do your emulsion at hight T (75-80°C), and then let naturally cool with slow mixing and no shear, that should be enough to let bubbles out.
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Thank you @ketchito I tried but that didn’t work initially.
I presumed the bubbles were arising from the water phase (water+glycerin_xanthan gum) <font face=”inherit”>mainly and gel network as you mentioned was making it harder to be out from the system. So, I let the water phase sit for 2 days (significantly reduced bubbles) and added to my oil phase, followed by your further suggestions on mixing which then helped. Thank you for your </font>valuable<font face=”inherit”> notes.</font>
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