Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating The Refractive Index of Oils & Esters

  • The Refractive Index of Oils & Esters

    Posted by Aniela on August 28, 2025 at 3:31 pm

    Hello lovely members 🙂


    Recently a fellow formulator insisted that I shouldn’t ignore the refractive index (RI), because using oils and/or esters with a RI very close or equal to the RI of the human sebum “helps to make formulations that are compatible with the skin (?) and non-comedogenic, plus it helps creating “invisible” serums, light oils, and non-greasy aesthetics”.

    Is the RI something that a formulator must always take into account when choosing oils and esters?

    Or is it something that could be useful only for oil-based products?

    Or is it something that doesn’t help much?

    The person couldn’t give me any reference, and I couldn’t find any, plus the RI of oils and esters wasn’t ever discussed in the courses I’ve took, nor in the school’s forum, therefore your help is really appreciated.

    Thank you.

    Aniela replied 1 hour, 44 minutes ago 2 Members · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • Perry44

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 28, 2025 at 3:45 pm

    I think someone has got some things mixed up. RI has nothing to do with comedogenicity or really any other type of product performance as far as I know. Matching RI was important in terms of trying to create a clear product when making an anhydrous mixture.

    • Aniela

      Member
      August 28, 2025 at 4:07 pm

      Thank you, Perry.

      It might be that the idea of using oils with a RI equal to the sebum’s RI made him so enthusiastic that he came up with a new “must”.

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