• Formulating

  Testing Ceramides vs Sphingolipids

  Posted by Thota on January 26, 2021 at 12:31 pm

  I am trying to make an elegant barrier supporting cream for dry acne prone skin. 
  And I have made few test emulsions

  Glycerin 2 %
  Xanthan 0.2% 
  Sodium lactate 2%
  PE 9010 1%
  Water QS

  Montanov L 1%
  Lotion Pro 1.5%
  CCTG 10%

  Now in the cool phase I added
  Sample 1 - 5% Squalane
  Sample 2 - 5% Ceramides by CLR (Aqua, Phospholipids, Sphingolipids)
  Sample 3 - 5% SK influx
  Sample 4 - 10% Ceramides by CLR (Aqua, Phospholipids, Sphingolipids)

  Sample 1 is pretty basic
  Sample 2 has nice enveloping effect
  Sample 3 is more fluid in consistency by more enveloping and light emollient occlusive effect 
  Sample 4 Almost similar emollincey to the sample with SK influx but a bit more sticky

  I definitely like the samples with ceramides - what I would call elegant emollience without heaviness

  Using SK influx makes the formula much more expensive than using Sphingolipids. 

  Any thoughts or inputs?

  Trying to understand the chemistry/ biology side of Ceramides vs Sphingolipids.

  Thanks in advance for your inputs!

  Thota replied 3 years, 10 months ago 3 Members · 3 Replies
• 3 Replies

• 

  Pharma

  Member

  January 26, 2021 at 7:57 pm

  SK influx does, according to Evnok, not contain water whilst the Ceramides by CLR list water as first ingredient… you do the maths .

• 

  jemolian

  Member

  January 27, 2021 at 1:14 am

  I’m wondering how effective the Ceramides by CLR would be.

  In terms of comparing the ingredients: 

  SK-Influx: 6% lipids

  • 1.5% Ceramide complex
    (Ceramides I, III, IIIB, VI) 
  • 0.5% Cholesterol 
  • 3.5% Free fatty acid 
  • 0.5% Phytosphingosine

  Ceramides by CLR: 2% lipids
  

  • Phospholipids
  • Sphingolipids (approx 0.2%) (The plant derived lipid mixture consists of at least 10 % sphingolipids (ceramides, glycoceramides = cerebrosides).)

  —

  Seems that Sphingolipids from the Ceramides by CLR would include the whole group of lipids which will be unspecific, verse the specific blend of SK-Influx.

  I’m wondering where the free fatty acids came from though. 

• 

  Thota

  Member

  January 27, 2021 at 12:21 pm

  According to CLR data sheets  
  water > 50% 
  Phospholipids 1-5%
  Shingolipids 0.1-1% (I get quite frustrated if the range is this broad)

  SK Influx is almost 5 times the cost of Ceramides by CLR
  Sk influx seems to have 3 times the ceramides.

  Doing the math,

  10% of Ceramides by CLR is equivalent to 3.3% of Sk influx

  But cost wise 3.3% SK influx would cost me 30% more than 10% Ceramides by CLR. Thats a good comparison!

  But wanted to know function wise which one is better for acne prone skin?
  I really don’t know the complete science of ceramides,
  I know what their function in skin care,
  and they felt very elegant on skin. 

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