Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Technology of blending essential oils in a solubilizer

  • Technology of blending essential oils in a solubilizer

    Posted by SERGE on October 4, 2015 at 10:55 pm
    I have some issues with separating of my formula.

    After mixing the 6 essential oils (tea tree, rosemary, lavender, eucalyptus, sage, clove) in the solubilizer Sepiclear G7 or Polysorbate-20 the
    lotion was not stable and some oil floats on top of the lotion. 

    I use 3 portion of solubilizer and 1 portion of essential oils.

    What is the mixing ratio of solubilizer and essential oils?

    Where to find the diagram of solubility of essential oils in solvents and water?

    Is it necessary to use preservatives for this formula?

    Thanks for help!
    ozgirl replied 8 years, 11 months ago 6 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • AuroraBorealis

    Member
    October 5, 2015 at 1:16 pm
    Question for you: What is your level of expertise in preparing cosmetic formulations?

    What is your lotions formulation? The fact that your oils float on the lotion has little to do with your solubilizer and a lot to do with your emulsifier and overall lotion formula. 

    And you need preservatives.  
  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    October 5, 2015 at 2:32 pm
    Every formula needs preservation - always, always, always.

    @AuroraBorealis is absolutely correct - oil floating on the surface of a lotion is a primary indication that your emulsion is not stable, which has nothing to do with solubilization. Your questions about this and about preservation are leading us to believe that you have very little experience with emulsions. That being the case, I would strongly urge that you have your formula safety tested before you distribute it to any other people.

    To answer your other questions anyway - There is no published phase diagram for essential oil blend solubility. (but if you determined one, I’d bet that you could get it published)

    Cosmetic Chemistry is an experimental science, so if a 3:1 solubilizer/oil ratio doesn’t work for you, try 4:1, 5:1, etc. The only correct ratio is the one that works for you in your own formulation. If 5:1 doesn’t work, however, you probably have the wrong solubilizer. Try a different one.
  • MichelleReece

    Member
    October 6, 2015 at 12:23 am

    @SERGE

    I highly recommend you read these articles: http://www.makingskincare.com/preservatives/ and http://www.makingskincare.com/how-to-make-a-lotioncream-part-1-equipment-and-ingredients/

    You should probably start making anhydrous creams (that won’t come into contact with water, such as an in-shower scrub/cream), while you build up a collection of preservatives and preservative enhancers. Once you learn more about emulsifiers and preservatives, then you can work your way into W/O and then O/W creams.

  • belassi

    Member
    October 6, 2015 at 3:44 pm

    Serge, Bob’s comment is right on, you need to experiment.

    If all you are doing is solubilising essential oils, then you don’t need to consider emulsion properties really, it is simply a solutions issue.
    Remember that though we call them “oils”, essential oils are a mixture of all sorts of types of chemicals, including esters, aldehydes, alcohols, terpenes, and so on.
  • SERGE

    Member
    October 7, 2015 at 12:43 am

    Thanks everyone for your help.

    I will try to do more experiments, also using other type of solubilizers for essential oils.

  • ozgirl

    Member
    October 7, 2015 at 1:46 am

    I always find a blend of solubilisers seems to work better than a single solubiliser when solubilising fragrance or essential oil in water. If you can add some ethanol to your solution you will probably use less solubiliser.

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