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Syndet/shampoo bar too hard with Sodium lauroyl glutamate vs SCS
Hello !
I have been working with sodium coco sulfate to make a syndet bar and I am now moving to sodium lauroyl glutamate (because it has low pH and i don’t have to adjust)But when I duplicate the formula swapping one for the other I
have VERY different results in terms of texture during the process.For example when with a formula with SCS it gives me a
soft enough dough at 40°C I can press to make the bar, if I use the same
formula with Sodium lauroyl glutamate it gives me a much harder dough and also
becomes crumbly.Typical Formula:Sodium lauroyl glutamate (powder) 82% brassicyl isoleucinate esylate
(and) brassica alcohol5% Squalane 13% I kept if anhydrous under some advice, for the bar no to be too sticky (so it does not tear when left on watery surface)Process:
I heat up the emulsifier and squalene to 70°C and then
add the surfactant, mix until it makes a paste. Cool down to 40°C and then mold
with manual press.Here at 40°C like I
said it is too hard to mold (whereas with SCS this formula will be fine, too much on the softer side even….). I tried increasing squalene up to 23% but then it
becomes very stickyDo you know why it behaves that way, and what could be a solution for me to get a soft enough dough at 40°C that I can mold with a manual press ?Thanks for the help ! ????
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