Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair Syndet bar hardening issue

  • Syndet bar hardening issue

    Posted by Username on January 11, 2019 at 5:57 pm

    What’s the best way to harden syndet bar?

    Formula A
    sci 30%
    slsa 28%
    capb 10%
    decyl 5%
    btms 3%
    cetyl 5%
    stearic 7%
    Emulsifying wax nf 7%
    panthenol 1%
    Aloe extract 1%
    fragrance 1%
    essential oil 1.5%
    preservative .5%

    Result: bar hardens but softens after two to three uses and good foam

    Formula B
    leaving out decyl
    Higher sci & slsa
    No btms
    higher cetyl & stearic

    result: hard bar, not so good foam but lathers well enough

    Your insights are highly appreciated, thank you!

    Margaret replied 5 years, 9 months ago 6 Members · 10 Replies
  • 10 Replies
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    January 11, 2019 at 6:36 pm

    sci 30% - ok
    slsa 28%  - 35%
    capb 10% - 22%
    decyl 5% - you don’t need it
    btms 3% - ok
    cetyl 5% - you don’t need it
    stearic - it makes shampoo draggy. you don’t need it
    Emulsifying wax nf 7% - You don’t need it
    panthenol 1% - ok  
    Aloe extract 1% -ok
    fragrance 1% - ok
    essential oil 1.5% - too much
    preservative .5% - are you sure it’s enough? what preservative?

    Add:
    - Sodium lactate 3% (must add, it makes bar harder)
    - Poliquat 10 - 2% (good to have but optional)

    Try to have 70% of dry ingredients (approx)

  • belassi

    Member
    January 11, 2019 at 6:53 pm

    How can the cationic BTMS be compatible with the anionic surfactants??

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    January 11, 2019 at 6:56 pm

    @Belassi, this is a beauty of syndet bars - they are very “forgiving”. You can combine cationics and anionics together and it works. The main issue is how to make them harden. Sodium Lactate is the deal breaker. 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    January 11, 2019 at 6:57 pm

    Moreover, the formula above minus decyl glucoside will have pH below 7. Fantastic product!

  • Username

    Member
    January 11, 2019 at 7:10 pm

    @ngarayeva001 thank you for your insight. 
    I used to put sodium lactate as instructed from the ebook I purchased from Susan of @SwiftCraftyMonkey but it don’t harden. At all. ?

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    January 11, 2019 at 8:37 pm

    Swiftcaftymonkey’s formulas (when done exactly as instructed) always work for me. My problems start when I start playing with surfactants :) Are you using exactly the same formula as she provides in the ezine?

  • Colorfuljulie

    Member
    January 11, 2019 at 11:16 pm

    I remember reading a post on SwiftCraftyMonkeys blog talking about the 100x aloe extract (powder) causing shampoo bars to soften. Maybe it’s the type of aloe extract you are using? 

  • Username

    Member
    January 11, 2019 at 11:59 pm

    @Colorfuljulie thank you. I thought so too. It must be the culprit, though I’m using Aloe vera gel extract 1x not the powder. 

  • Suzita8

    Member
    March 19, 2019 at 7:11 pm

    @Colorfuljulie this is the helpful link you’re referring to:  https://swiftcraftymonkey.blog/questions-and-answers-about-shampoo-bars-the-master-list/ .  All in all sounds like “shampoo bars” are a bit of a waste of time!

  • Margaret

    Member
    March 19, 2019 at 7:59 pm

    I have abandoned LIQUID shampoo because I love shampoo bars.

     No need for plastic bottles with a bar.

     My bars get soft after maybe 20 uses. I suppose you can use ONE bar for X amount of time, then use ANOTHER  bar for Y amount of time.Then go back to the 1st bar etc. That way, you are allowing your bars to have that water they absorbed during use, to evaporate, while you are using ANOTHER bar.

     I hope this is clear? 

    When the 2 bars you’re using are irritatingly small, put both of them into a net bag to continue to use it all up. 

    Yes, get net bags for the bars. The bags also allow you to hang the bars between uses, to allow for maximal drying between uses. 

    I do NOT mean organza bags, that fabric feels like it’s scraping the hair…hard to explain.

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