Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Strange Emulsification Behavior

  • Strange Emulsification Behavior

    Posted by carplgrower on February 27, 2019 at 1:09 pm

    Hello;
    I use sodium stearoyl lactylate, glyceryl stearate and cetearyl alcohol blend (Ritamulse)  as emulsifying wax.

    I heated seperately oil phase and water phase and mix at 78-80 degree celcius. Result is fail.

    Then I remelted mixture to the 78-80 degree celcius and stir again. Result is watery emulsion.

    Then I remelted the watery emulsion again and stir it. Result is fine with creamy viscosity.

    So if I want to reach cream viscosity, I need to remelt mixture for three times.

    I try to change emulsifier ratios, increase the amount of emulsifier, stirring speed etc… many times and results are same.

    How can I reach cream viscosity at the first time.

    Thank you and sorry for my english.

    belassi replied 5 years, 9 months ago 6 Members · 10 Replies
  • 10 Replies
  • Microformulation

    Member
    February 27, 2019 at 3:21 pm

    You would need to post your entire Formula, as each material potentially has some effect.

  • carplgrower

    Member
    February 27, 2019 at 7:31 pm

    @Microformulation thank you for your reply.

    INCI
    Oil Phase
    5% Sweet almond oil
    5% Grapeseed oil
    2% Coconut oil
    1% Cocoa butter
    1% Shea butter
    2% Glyceryl Stearate
    2% Cetearyl alcohol

    Water Phase
    4% Sodium stearoyl lactylate
    2% Glycerine
    76% Water

  • JonahRay

    Member
    February 27, 2019 at 8:02 pm

    @carplgrower When you say ‘remelt’ are you cooling the mixture down to room temperature and then reheating?

  • belassi

    Member
    February 27, 2019 at 9:13 pm

    Lack of shear, I should think.

  • ozgirl

    Member
    February 27, 2019 at 9:17 pm
    You are not using Ritamulse because you have your raw materials for this blend in different phases. Are you trying to recreate this emulsifier?
    The ratio of glyceryl stearate, cetearyl alcohol and sodium stearoyl lactylate in the Ritamulse SCG emulsifier blend is different to what you have attempted here.
  • Microformulation

    Member
    February 27, 2019 at 9:35 pm

    1. I truly believe that you need to re-examine the emulsification system. 2. Other than that, I agree with @Belassi that you also have a process (manufacturing) issue. What are you using to mix, heat, monitor heat and check pH?

  • carplgrower

    Member
    February 28, 2019 at 5:09 am

    @JonahRay;
    Yes it is. Sorry for my English.

    @Belassi;
    I try with many thinks such as stick blender, milk frother, stick blender with whisk attachment… with low speed to very high speed. Results are same.

    @ozgirl;
    Because in my country I can only access them as a raw material. I tried to create exactly with Ritamulse ratios (%60 Glyceryl stearate, %25 Cetearyl alcohol and %15 SSL) and added to oil phase. Result is not so different.

    @Microformulation;

    I used stick blender, milk frother, blender with whisk attachment even driller with blender attachment. Low speed, medium speed, high speed…

    The best result I got with milk frother.

    I heat with bainmarie, mix to phase at 78-80 celcius degree, mix them at that temperature for 1-3 minutes and put the mixture in cold water bath. I continuously mix it, until cool to 28-30 celcius degree.

    Yes I check ph. My final pH is 5.7-5.8

    Weight of batch is 200 g.

    If I re-heat the mixture, second result is thicker than first one and third one has a creamy viscosity.

    I also think that every heating mixture lost of some water as due to evoparation. But I think it is not the problem because I lost only 1-1.2 g of water on the 200 g final product.

    Thank you for your helps.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    February 28, 2019 at 6:43 am

    Milk frother is the worst tool that can be used to make an emulsion. Even a fork is better in some cases. It doesn’t introduce enough shear but incorporates tons of air. Because it’s function is to create foam. From what you listed stick blender is the most appropriate. Get bosh with small attachment if you want to make small batches.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    February 28, 2019 at 6:47 am

    Depending on the process I add 2-3% more water  as it will be inevitably evaporate. You should add water the lost water back.

  • belassi

    Member
    February 28, 2019 at 3:27 pm

    You’ll have to increase the % of emulsifier until it works, possibly add xanthan gum (0.2%) as stabiliser.

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