Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Stickiness of aqueous serum

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  • Stickiness of aqueous serum

    Posted by Anonymous on February 20, 2017 at 4:20 am

    I have an aqueous serum for a facial sheet mask consisting of:
    Water 72%
    Glycerin 5%
    Zemea 5%
    Betaine (Genencare OSMS BA) - supposedly reduces tackiness
    Xanthan 0.8% (need this viscosity to stop it dripping off the sheet)
    Actives - 15%
    Preservative - 1%
    Fragrance - 0.5%

    It is a bit tacky or sticky after removing the sheet and wiping dry.
    Any suggestions?

    jeremien replied 7 years, 9 months ago 5 Members · 9 Replies
  • 9 Replies
  • Bill_Toge

    Member
    February 20, 2017 at 8:10 am

    it’s likely to be the xanthan gum causing that

    what are the actives?

  • johnb

    Member
    February 20, 2017 at 8:33 am

    As Bill says, probably the xanthan gum - 0.8% is a very high level for this material but 15% of undefined actives may be the real problem.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    February 20, 2017 at 1:01 pm

    @peterlehrke: 

    Actually, Glycerin at 5% is your problem.  Glycerin at anything above 1% will be stick.  Best you drop the Glycerin down to 0.5%.  Check to see if any of your Actives are in a glycerin or water/glycerin base.  If possible, use only Actives that are in a water base.  If you want, you can replace Xanthan with Sclerotium Gum.

  • jeremien

    Member
    February 22, 2017 at 1:16 pm

    Most of the Cream/gel/lotions contain between 3 and 5% glycerin

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    February 22, 2017 at 1:38 pm

    @jeremien:

    No, you are absolutely wrong on that point.  Most cream/gel/lotions formulations contain approximately 1% to 2% glycerin.

  • jeremien

    Member
    February 22, 2017 at 4:24 pm

    @MarkBroussard  I beleive you. I use to put 3 % of pure glycerin  (and you have to add the glycerin of glycerin based ingredients) in most of my products and they are not sticky. Most of the orientative formulas that ingredient suppliers send me (Croda, Dow corning, DrStaetmans, Gattefosse, etc.) have glycerin level between 2-5%  

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    February 22, 2017 at 7:08 pm

    @jeremien:

    Those are sample formulations to highlight their ingredients, not commercial products.  Ask yourself why those formulations are not commercial products.

  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    February 22, 2017 at 8:47 pm

    It’s helpful to realize that the cheapest possible ingredient in cream/lotion formulas is water. Most of the time, as commercial cosmetic chemists, we are striving to use the very lowest amount of ingredients (other than water) needed to achieve our objectives.

    The difference in performance between no glycerin and 1% glycerin is noticeable, but the difference between 1% and 5% glycerin is fairly small. The cost difference, however, between 1% and 5% can be significant.

    Using more than you need is frequently not better.

  • jeremien

    Member
    February 23, 2017 at 9:29 am

    @Bobzchemist you are totally right, and the same comment is valid for the surfactant that many time is overloaded

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