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Stabilize Vitamin C
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Another form for vitamin C stabilization (in part of course) is doing a triple emulsion: W (with ascorbic acid)/Si/W.
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@pma - I read something about this a few months back. Using polyphase emulsions to stabilise vitamins in food.
Can’t quite remember the reason why they were doing this in foods though.
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Here are two products that are triple emulsions to avoid vitamin C degradation:
Aqua/Water/Eau, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), Propylene Glycol, Nylon 12, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, PEG/PPG 18/18 Dimethicone, Disodium EDTA, Acrylates Crosspolymer, Isobutane, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Parfum/FragranceWater, Dimethicone, Iscocetyl Sterate, Glycerin, Mannose, Ascorbic Acid, Caprylic/Capric/Lauric TriglycerideButylene Glycol, Sucrose Tristearate, Potassium Hydroxide, Sodium Styrene/Ma Copolymer, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Steareth-10, Madecassoside, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Tetrasodium EDTA, Acetyl Dipeptide 1 Cetyl Ester, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Phenoxyethanol, FragranceWell, I suppose they are triple emulsions because they are from L’oréal and this company patented triple emulsions formulas for vitamin C. -
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I wonder - those Ascorbic Acid products with no water- is there a special grind “type” I should be looking for when buying the vitamin, if I want to make it at home? The ascorbic acid I have is really gritty and I can’t rub it against my skin if not solubilized.
So, what type of AA should I search for, if I wanted to create a suspension in silicone ? which are the key words or, better, which should be the max particle size?Can i also try to grind it at home (mortar/pestle or coffee grinder) to get a finer powder with no gritty feeling on the skin? -
I feel the strong doubt that any form of AA other than the pure acid would be effective on skin. It is the main issue related to this acid.
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Mortar and pestle won’t work - it’s more for plants. Use a muller:
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I recall we have learned the method of stabilization the Vit C in the Medical University and I have found it. So, you could try it. Stabilization ingredients are Sodium Sulfite with the presence of Sodium Bicarbonate.
Here are the formulation:
Ascorbic Acid -10.0%
Sodium Sulfite -0.2%
Sodium Bicarbonate - 4.7%
Water - ad 100.0
First the water should be boiled and cooled in a closed jar - it helps to rid the oxygen off the water.
Then dissolve the sults and put the AA. Keep in a dry cool place in a dark glass container.
Regularly they sterilize this solution. But I guess it would be presserved as well.
Th pH of this stabilized solution should be 6-7 which is not bad for the skin as well.
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However,Pinnell claims that efficacy of l ascorbic acid in skin is pH dependent, less than pH3.5
Source: Pinnell, S. R., Yang, H., Omar, M., Riviere, N. M., DeBuys, H. V.,
Walker, L. C., Wang, Y. and Levine, M. (2001), Topical L-Ascorbic Acid:
Percutaneous Absorption Studies. Dermatologic Surgery, 27: 137–142.
doi: 10.1046/j.1524-4725.2001.00264.x -
‘Philosophy’ solved the stability issue by simply selling l ascorbic acid powder separately (‘ turbo booster c powder’) and getting customers to mix it themselves with a water based serum or cream. Something many DIY skin care enthusiasts were doing well before Philosophy started selling their powder.
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Dears,
Does anyone have any knowledge if it would be classified as patent infringement (of the CE Ferulic patent) when the formulation would be formulated at pH > 3.6? So the formula would contain 15% ascorbic acid, 1% vitamin E and 0.5% Ferulic acid at pH >3.6.
Also, I am currently using 1% Tocopherol (natural mixed tocopherol) to stabilise the AA. Is Alpha Tocopherol better for stabilisation purposes vs. natural mixed Tocopherols (that include Alpha Tocopherol as well, but at a lower concentration)?
Finally, what is the best pH adjuster when working with high concentrations of Ascorbic acid. I notice that the moment any pH adjuster is added, the degradation of AA occurs more quickly. Would Sodium hydroxide (20% solution) be a suitable option? Or would other pH adjusters be better to avoid negatively impacting AA stability?
Many thanks in advance!
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Use ethyl ascorbic, the stable form of vitamin C. Easy to formulate
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Another points;
vitamin C needs pH of 3.5 for effective
other stable form of C needs pH of 5 to 6 -
@simona if this site ships to you https://lotioncrafter.com/products/l-ascorbic-acid-ultrafine?_pos=1&_sid=6fa9b20b5&_ss=r
About every 6 months we get a request to copy skinceuticals and we have to explain to sales it is patented and the options around it. I think higher pH is the easiest work around, but like others are saying i don’t think it’s helping product efficacy. You can always try the derivatives, my personal favorites are ascorbyl glucoside and the amitose series from seiwa (though those are more for feel than true efficacy)
I think most places do stay under the radar, but if your product gets popular they are more likely to come after you…’because you’re worth it’ (sorry can’t resist)
https://www.thefashionlaw.com/home/loreal-is-suing-drunk-elephant-for-patent-infringement-over-its-buzzy-vitamin-c-serum -
@EVchem , the pure vitamin C has pH < 2.5 . That means the skin can be irritated? We have to use NaOH to bring pH to > 3.5
with pH > 3.5 the vitamin C still effective?
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