Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Solubilizer polysorbate 80

  • Solubilizer polysorbate 80

    Posted by Christopher on September 21, 2016 at 11:34 am

    Hello,
    I’m having a really difficult time solubilizing a small amount of oil (1 %) into water without ending up with a cloudy result. I’ve tried mixing the oil and poly80 before adding the water. This resulted in a big glob that stuck to the glass rod I was stirring with. Heating up the mixture dissolved the glob and appeared to fix the cloudiness until it was stirred again.

    The ratio’s I’ve tested are 1:1, 1:2, 1:3, 1:4, 1:5, oil:poly80. The result was a cloudy mixture, every time. I haven’t been able to find information about proper instructions aside from anecdotal data from various forums/blogs. But I’ve seen and know that people can successfully create a clear solution with only these ingredients. If anyone could point me in the right direction, that would be wonderful. Thanks!

    ozgirl replied 8 years, 2 months ago 6 Members · 11 Replies
  • 11 Replies
  • johnb

    Member
    September 21, 2016 at 11:38 am

    Which oil are you trying to solubilize?

    Have you tried any other solubilizer e.g PEG40 hydrogenated castor oil?

    What is the purpose of your solubilized oil?

  • Christopher

    Member
    September 21, 2016 at 12:12 pm

    Hey johnb, thanks for swift reply.
    The oil I’m using is sweet almond oil, and the only other solubilizer I’ve tried is poly20 which produced the exact same results.
    I don’t really have a purpose for the product other than experimentation. I have this other product where poly80 is supposed to solubilize 1 % tocopherol but it failed. So I thought I’d see if the same thing would happen with 1 % sweet almond oil.

  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 21, 2016 at 12:38 pm

    Are you pre-mixing the oil with the Polysorbate 80? IT should be pre-mixed and a homogeneous mixture obtained. Then it is added to the water. For brevity, it is usually best to start at a 5 Poly 80 to 1 oil ratio. This usually works and you can titrate downwards.

    That said, I have always gotten better results with PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil.

  • johnb

    Member
    September 21, 2016 at 12:42 pm

    I think that you will have to increase the amount of solubilizer to enable a clear almond oil/water mixture.

    Personally, I’ve never had much success with polysorbates (doesn’t mean that you won’t). I find other surfactants (e.g castor oil derivatives) more suitable.

  • Christopher

    Member
    September 21, 2016 at 1:15 pm

    @Microformulation: I did that a couple of times, but when water was added the oil mixture stuck to the stirrer and wouldn’t dissolve. I’ll give it a few more attempts. Maybe apply heat while premixing them together?
    @johnb: Yeah, seems like polysorbates are a pain to work with. In an emulsion system however they are easy to incorporate.

    Guess I’ll try to get a hold of PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil like both of you suggested. It seems to be the gold standard for solubilizing oils into water.

  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 21, 2016 at 1:26 pm

    You will likely need to heat the mixture to decrease the viscosity to get good solubulization.

  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    September 21, 2016 at 2:08 pm

    I think I spotted your problem. You need to mix your oil with poly80 in one beaker, stop and clean your mixing blade, then in a second beaker, add your water, start mixing, and add the poly80/oil mixture drop by drop. This can’t be done with a mixing rod, either - you need a prop mixer, or a reasonable substitute.

    When you added water to the poly80/oil mixture, you made a w/o emulsion, which at some point, stopped accepting more water - hence the “blob”. The heat broke the emulsion, but then there wasn’t enough solubilizer to make it clear.

  • Christopher

    Member
    September 21, 2016 at 2:25 pm

    @Microformulation: unfortunately that didn’t work either.
    @Bobzchemist: thank you for your insight Robert! I’ll try this once I get a hold of a proper mixer.

  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 21, 2016 at 3:02 pm

    @Bobzchemist so rightfully pointed out your issue is in the process (manufacturing). This really needs effective mixing over a period of time. A proper mixer is key.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    September 21, 2016 at 7:47 pm

    If you continue to have problems with Polysorbate80, you might try Seppiclear G7 (Heptyl Glucoside) or PolySugaMulse D9.

  • ozgirl

    Member
    September 21, 2016 at 10:06 pm

    I have found that when trying to solubilise fragrances that sometimes a combination of solubilisers works better than just one. Maybe you can try a blend PEG-40 Hydrogenated castor oil and Polysorbate 20.

    You could also try increasing the solubiliser ratio.

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