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Silicone Alternatives/Soaping
Has anyone ever found any of the silicone alternatives such as the Cetiol or LexFeel family of materials effective in achieving the anti-soaping properties of silicones? Curious to see if anyone has experience with these. Thank you!
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9 Replies
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I haven’t. Science has a nice explanation why substituting silicones with non-silicones (especially esters, for Easter bunny’s sake!) for anti-soaping is virtually impossible unless large enough amounts of oils are used to kill the emulsifier’s capacity (i.e. breaking the emulsion). Sure, pure hydrocarbons such as Cetiol Ultimate or squalane will do a better job than isoamyl laurate but it’s like trying to replace simethicone (1-2 pills) against flatulence with olive oil. Replacing it with essential oils does work though this is also due to pharmacological actions and not just the anti-soaping effect. In theory, one should give essential oils a try
. Other potential substances to try can be ethanol, hydrophobic silica, and ethylene bis stearamide. However, all these won’t feel like silicones and given that cosmetics is more about feel than action… -
@Pharma thank you as always! I had a feeling this was the case. Of course, clients not wanting silicones makes the job slightly more challenging. I will test some of those substitutes!
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MattTheChemist said:Has anyone ever found any of the silicone alternatives such as the Cetiol or LexFeel family of materials effective in achieving the anti-soaping properties of silicones? Curious to see if anyone has experience with these. Thank you!
I’ve used LuxGlide N350 (INCI: Diheptyl Succinate (and) Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer) quite a bit and find it definitely cuts down the soaping and adds nice siliconey slip. Also NatraSil (INCI: Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables) adds a nice feel too. I also really like the feel of Daikon Seed Extract as well (INCI: Raphanus Sativus (Radish) Seed Extract).
Hope that helps! -
Ah, LuxGlide N350… that looks like it could work. I’ll add that to my ‘to try list’. Thanks!
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I’ve had good success using Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters … Floratech Floraesters K-20W, specifically. Also, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl TaurateCopolymer
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@abierose great information, thank you! the N350 was one I was looking at.
@MarkBroussard I have some of the Floraesters on hand so I will give that a go! Thank you!
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@MattTheChemist and @Pharma - Awesome!! Glad to help! :smiley:
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Late to the party but I’ve used
Lexgard® Natural MHG MB (Methylheptylglycerin) with decent success at 2% and that was with Olivem 1000 which is notorious for soaping. -
Very interesting on the Floratech Floraesters K-20W….as I use it in every formula…and have far less soaping than I deserve. I had never seen it listed as an anti-soaper…but maybe that is why my formulas that have either no silicone…or my newer formulas which have only small amounts…don’t soap at all.
Granted…I stay away from the classic soaping emulsifiers, and stearic acid (for the most part).
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