Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Shampoo splitting

  • Shampoo splitting

    Posted by arhlene.lyons on April 16, 2025 at 7:26 pm

    Thinking that I have finally made a fabulous shampoo (Clarifying), I made a large batch and after a month it split.

    I thought that I had decreased the amount of cationic ingredients to low enough levels but clearly not.

    Can I salvage this batch? Will adding an emulsifier work? It feels so great on the hair, I would hate throwing it down the drain! Can someone please advise me?

    Aqua 45.93%

    EDTA 0.15%

    Allantoin 0.5%

    AOS 40 20%

    Coco glucoside 3%

    CAPB 20%

    Citric acid 0.07%

    Vit E acetate 0.3%

    EO Blend 1.6%

    Veg. Glycerine 6%

    GHPC 0.15%

    Polyquaternium 7 0.6%

    Liquid germal plus 0.5%

    Sodium chloride 1.2%

    PH set to 5.

    Thank you for your time!

    arhlene.lyons replied 3 days, 4 hours ago 4 Members · 7 Replies
  • 7 Replies
  • Perry44

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    April 17, 2025 at 7:45 am

    When you say “split” I’m assuming you mean it separated? 1.6% EO is very high so that is likely your problem. Also, I think Allantoin can contribute to separation.

    If you were selling the product you should probably throw it away. If you are using it yourself, just Shake before use and it should be fine. Unless, of course you have some microbial contamination. Then you should just throw it away.

  • arhlene.lyons

    Member
    April 17, 2025 at 11:42 am

    Hi Perry.

    Thank you for your response. I will drop the EO and remove the Allantoin. No there is no Microbial growth, well not that I can see. The separation is a clear section about 1/4 of the volume of the shampoo. Could the EO & Allantoin have such a large effect?

    Is the % of the GHPC small enough so as not to impact?

    A month is a long time to wait for a reaction. Is there a faster way eg heating cooling and repeat.

    • Perry44

      Professional Chemist / Formulator
      April 17, 2025 at 1:44 pm

      Yeah, the GHPC is probably fine. It’s also possible that your PQ7 is a little high 0.6%. Typically, 0.2% is enough. I don’t know the nature of your separation but 1/4 the volume seems pretty high. This usually means an oil but it could also mean a polymer, like PQ7. It’s water soluble so it shouldn’t be a problem but you never know with these things.

      • arhlene.lyons

        Member
        April 18, 2025 at 4:26 pm

        Thank you Perry, I will drop the PQ7.

  • MaidenOrangeBlossom

    Member
    April 17, 2025 at 5:42 pm

    Maybe try cationic guar, gums have a stabiliing effect and CG also enhances foaming so it might work very well. I don’t remember ever using or making a product that didn’t eventually seperate. Most directions on products I buy instruct to shake well. So it might not be that bad. put it in a dark container and tell people to shake.

  • ketchito

    Member
    April 17, 2025 at 10:48 pm

    It feels like deja vu…I’ve seen so many posts about shampoo phase separation where there’s a glucoside and a gum. Can you try a sample without coco glucoside? Also, add your cationic guar right at the start, after the water with vigurous mixing. After 10 min, add your disodium EDTA to speed up hydration. Your solution will turn thick and less yellow.

    • arhlene.lyons

      Member
      April 18, 2025 at 4:46 pm

      I’m going to try that. Can I just use the AOS 40 and CAPB? Also another question just to understand - if you were to add the GHPC to CAPB, will it make the Betain cationic or will it turn more Anionic with the greater amount of AOS 40 even though AOS added much later. I always wondered why some formulas add the betain separate to the other surfactants and much later. Thank you for your response.

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