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Shampoo formulation with vegetable oil
Hello!
I would like to formulate a shampoo that has a bit of castor oil but i need your advice on which phase i should introduce it.
Formula:
Phase A
Lauryl Glucoside: 25%
Decyl Glucoside: 10%
Coco-glucoside&Glyceril Oleate: 4%Phase B
Water: the rest of %
Dermofeel: 0,1%
Plant extracts: 0,5%
Glycerine: 3%
Activated charcoal powder: 0,5%
Panthenol: 2%Phase C
Ethylhexylglycerin and phenoxyethanol: 1%
Essential oil: 1%What do you think about this recipe? Should i introduce 1% of castor oil to Phase A or Phase C? Do i need any other ingredient to ensure no phase separation?
Thank you so much for your help!
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18 Replies
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The shampoo is designed to remove oils, so it honestly will have little, if any real benefit.
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Your shampoo is all glucosides? Have you ever tested this surfactant mix you are suggesting? It could be quite irritating. Panthenol just gets rinsed off anyway, it won’t stick to hair in a shampoo.
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Cafe33 said:Your shampoo is all glucosides? Have you ever tested this surfactant mix you are suggesting? It could be quite irritating. Panthenol just gets rinsed off anyway, it won’t stick to hair in a shampoo.Hi! I tested it and it was not irritating for me but i did read these are mild surfactants so never thought they could be irritating for anyone.
Do you have any suggestions about changing or adding anything else? Should i maybe reduce the % of surfactants?Thank you!
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Microformulation said:The shampoo is designed to remove oils, so it honestly will have little, if any real benefit.
Still, i would like to try it. In what phase would you advise me to put the vegetable oil?
Thank you a lot!
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Cafe33 said:Your shampoo is all glucosides? Have you ever tested this surfactant mix you are suggesting? It could be quite irritating. Panthenol just gets rinsed off anyway, it won’t stick to hair in a shampoo.
I wanted to make the formula to be considered natural, hence why i used those surfactants. The formula was a bit too thin so i’m considering trying again and adding 0,25% xanthan gum to phase B. So if you think i should change the formula a bit for the surfactants also, please let me know.
Thank you!
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Adding oils and such ingredients in shampoo is like putting a tank of kerozin inside a diesel car. It sure makes for a hell of a story, but provides no real benefit.
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I am sure that is true, however i have noticed that for example castor oil increases the foam a lot to any shampoo i added it to.
I guess the logical option would be to add it to Phase A because adding it to at the end of the formulation might make the formula separate faster.
What do you guys think? -
@marinaartm the slat of castor oil make more foam and stability however all vegetables oil reduce it.
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@marinaartm Well, as @Fekher mentioned sodium ricinoleate and PEG-40 HCO can indeed serve as foam boosters, but they easily fail even in big ration compared to for example coco betaine, decyl glucoside or glucoside (more importantly different sulfates and oxides surfactants improve the foam greatly). If you are really adding the castor oil only for the foam, why risk it with the oiliness that regular castor oil can provide to formula?
Foam, as mentioned before many times has nothing to do with effectiveness of shampoo but marely with the perception the user has (I do agree this matters as well) so, if you want oils as claim ingredients add them in small percentage (less then 1% combined) and leave at it. But, doing that you are reinforcing the perception of consumers that oils in shampoo do help, so hell be damned, why do that also?
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marinaartm said:Cafe33 said:Your shampoo is all glucosides? Have you ever tested this surfactant mix you are suggesting? It could be quite irritating. Panthenol just gets rinsed off anyway, it won’t stick to hair in a shampoo.
I wanted to make the formula to be considered natural, hence why i used those surfactants. The formula was a bit too thin so i’m considering trying again and adding 0,25% xanthan gum to phase B. So if you think i should change the formula a bit for the surfactants also, please let me know.
Thank you!
I am not much of a fan of decyl glucoside in large inputs. I think you are working a little backwards. My suggestion is to use an anionic surfactant, add an amphoteric like CAPB and lower the input of non-ionic surfactants. The best “affordable” sulfate free formula I developed utilizes sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, decyl glucoside, CAPB, Lamesoft PO65 and a thickener. I use polymers as thickeners but if you are looking to use Xanthan gum, try it but it will not have as nice a feel.
The main surfactant is the anionic. It is a good product but no where near the “regular” shampoo I make using a sulfate (ALS) blend. I am a beginner headed to an intermediate stage when it comes to shampoos, so take my advice with that fact in consideration.
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@Cafe33 As you can’t use salt for thickening that kind of formulation, what did you use to thicken it? Acrylates copolymer, gums?
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Svemirska_baklava said:@marinaartm Well, as @Fekher mentioned sodium ricinoleate and PEG-40 HCO can indeed serve as foam boosters, but they easily fail even in big ration compared to for example coco betaine, decyl glucoside or glucoside (more importantly different sulfates and oxides surfactants improve the foam greatly). If you are really adding the castor oil only for the foam, why risk it with the oiliness that regular castor oil can provide to formula?
Foam, as mentioned before many times has nothing to do with effectiveness of shampoo but marely with the perception the user has (I do agree this matters as well) so, if you want oils as claim ingredients add them in small percentage (less then 1% combined) and leave at it. But, doing that you are reinforcing the perception of consumers that oils in shampoo do help, so hell be damned, why do that also?
I will try to use the oils in a lower percentage as you suggested. I wanted to use Coco Betaine but it seems it has some negative effects aswell so i’ll just stick to the glucosides
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Cafe33 said:marinaartm said:Cafe33 said:Your shampoo is all glucosides? Have you ever tested this surfactant mix you are suggesting? It could be quite irritating. Panthenol just gets rinsed off anyway, it won’t stick to hair in a shampoo.
I wanted to make the formula to be considered natural, hence why i used those surfactants. The formula was a bit too thin so i’m considering trying again and adding 0,25% xanthan gum to phase B. So if you think i should change the formula a bit for the surfactants also, please let me know.
Thank you!
I am not much of a fan of decyl glucoside in large inputs. I think you are working a little backwards. My suggestion is to use an anionic surfactant, add an amphoteric like CAPB and lower the input of non-ionic surfactants. The best “affordable” sulfate free formula I developed utilizes sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, decyl glucoside, CAPB, Lamesoft PO65 and a thickener. I use polymers as thickeners but if you are looking to use Xanthan gum, try it but it will not have as nice a feel.
The main surfactant is the anionic. It is a good product but no where near the “regular” shampoo I make using a sulfate (ALS) blend. I am a beginner headed to an intermediate stage when it comes to shampoos, so take my advice with that fact in consideration.
Sounds like a good combo. I will see where i can find sodium lauryl sarcosinate. Although i am thinking the regular consumer might confuse it with SLS.
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People don’t care if it is SLS or sarcosinate. Look what does the shampoo that most people use have. SLS.
This mean most people don’t care about SLS.
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Abdullah said:People don’t care if it is SLS or sarcosinate. Look what does the shampoo that most people use have. SLS.
This mean most people don’t care about SLS.
Exactly. People get stuck in the minor details of the ingredients (“it has the word sulfate”). This is outdated and not significant in any real markets.
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Svemirska_baklava said:@Cafe33 As you can’t use salt for thickening that kind of formulation, what did you use to thicken it? Acrylates copolymer, gums?
I use PEG-150 Stearate for the ALS Blend, For the sulfate free formulations, I use acrylic copolymers for the “facial cleansers” with low surfactant input and Carbopol Aqua SF-1 (Found this to be quite expensive since the input needs to be 8-10%)
I settled on Methyl Glucose Dioleate PEG-120 as my favorite option. Also, Polyquat 7 and especially Polyquat 10 also thickens it nicely.
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I added just 1% of castor oil, combined with saw palmetto oil and safflower oil at phase C and then added the preservative and the essential oils and the formula separated. Maybe i can add the vegetable oils in phase A?
Or should i use an emulsifier? Any suggestions? -
Why you want to use oil in shampoo?
If you are selling the product just add 0.00000000001% oil because it doesn’t benefit you from a Shampoo.
If it is for your own use the don’t add it to shampoo. Apply the oil to your hair after shampooing
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