Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating shampoo Formulation seperation problem

  • shampoo Formulation seperation problem

    Posted by greenviv on June 22, 2019 at 8:01 am

    Shampoo formulation is separating on 2nd day with top creamy layer almost 25% of total volume what is wrong with formulation: 

    Water : 45%
    CAPB: 24%
    AOS: 16%
    DG: 5%
    Glycerin: 2%
    Sorbitol: 1%
    Dimethicone: 2%
    NACL: 1.5%
    Panthenol: 1%
    Polyquatarium-10: 0.5%
    Argan Oil : 0.5%
    Lavender e/o : 0.5%
    Citric Acid: 0.2%
    Preservative : 1% (potassium sorbet, sodium benzoate, benzyl alcohol, Di sodium ETDA)

    PH is 5.2. 

    chickenskin replied 5 years, 2 months ago 8 Members · 15 Replies
  • 15 Replies
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    June 22, 2019 at 8:23 am

    Exclude dimethicone and try again. It’s most probably the issue.

  • Chemist77

    Member
    June 22, 2019 at 10:48 am

    I will be very shocked if it didn’t separate with that amount of dimethicone and Argan oil. Plus why 1% panthenol when it will be washed away. And last but not the least, why that much essential oil?? 

  • greenviv

    Member
    June 22, 2019 at 11:01 am

    @Chemist77
    Dimethicone is main issue as I tried a test batch without it and things are good.

    Argan oil, panthenol and essential oil are main features of the shampoo which we are going to claim, even I know these will have little effect as washed off but will add marketing value to product.   

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    June 22, 2019 at 11:10 am

    Replace dimethicone to the watersoluble amodimethicone if you want to add conditioning.

  • greenviv

    Member
    June 22, 2019 at 11:21 am

    @ngarayeva001
    how about using Dimethicone copolyol as water soluble 

  • Chemist77

    Member
    June 22, 2019 at 1:24 pm

    Marketing stories can be built around 0.01% as well honestly. As for dimethicone replacement, there are options with water solubility and you can easily go that route. 

  • OldPerry

    Member
    June 22, 2019 at 1:51 pm

    Yes, dimethicone copolyol is a good option, although much less conditioning than dimethicone

  • Chemistrygirl

    Member
    June 23, 2019 at 9:18 am

    greenviv said:

    @Chemist77
    Dimethicone is main issue as I tried a test batch without it and things are good.

    Argan oil, panthenol and essential oil are main features of the shampoo which we are going to claim, even I know these will have little effect as washed off but will add marketing value to product.   

  • Chemistrygirl

    Member
    June 23, 2019 at 9:19 am

    Those are pricey lovely materials best used on leave in conditioner for example

  • Gunther

    Member
    June 25, 2019 at 3:49 pm

    Perry said:

    Yes, dimethicone copolyol is a good option, although much less conditioning than dimethicone

    Totally agree.
    Water soluble silicones aren’t nearly as conditioning.
    For silicones to work, they must be water insoluble.

    So, @greenviv you have 2 options:
    1. Emulsify silicone yourself.
    You can make some concentrated LABSA neutralized with TOEA (TEA), then emulsify silicone in it, then blend with the rest of the shampoo.

    2. You can buy a premade silicone blend.
    Those made by DOW are great, but they usually only sell by the 20/200 Kg drums.
    For smaller quantities you can buy something like 
    https://www.makingcosmetics.com/Amodimethicone_p_975.html?locale=en
    albeit it may prove pricey in the long run.
    (I’m not affiliated with makingcosmetics in any way).

    No matter if #1 or #2,
    make sure your formula includes something to increase silicone deposition on hair.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    June 25, 2019 at 8:20 pm

    I tried amodimethicone by makingcosmetics (in shampoo). Quite a nice material and easy to work with.

  • khoikhoa

    Member
    June 26, 2019 at 6:03 am

    using carbomer to suspend dimethicone & oil

  • Gunther

    Member
    June 27, 2019 at 1:26 am

    khoikhoa said:

    using carbomer to suspend dimethicone & oil

    You need something that effectively emulsifies silicones (BTW oils have no place in shampoos, unless it’s a claim ingredient or essential oils as fragrances)
    Just using a thickener won’t work.

  • Gunther

    Member
    July 1, 2019 at 3:01 pm

    I tried amodimethicone by makingcosmetics (in shampoo). Quite a nice material and easy to work with.

    Amodimethicone suppresses foam less, and deposits itself on hair better than dimethicone or dimethiconol does.

  • chickenskin

    Member
    July 1, 2019 at 5:29 pm

    Solvay has some nice materials that can incorporate high amounts of oils in shampoos.  If you get on ULprospector and check out Solvay’s line of surfactants you’ll find some cool ideas.

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