Shampoo formulating problems.

Formulating

Shampoo formulating problems.

Posted by arhlene.lyons on November 16, 2024 at 7:16 pm

Hi, im new to shampoo formulating and need help. I’m going round in circles. I’m trying unsuccessfully to formulate a shampoo for normal to dry (porous) long hair. My problem is that it feels really thick (probably too much Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) and my fine hair still feels dry. I also have a Brazilian treatment and don’t want to affect that. If i reduce the Guar hydra… will my hair knot. Also I use PEG 12 Dimethicone - can I use Dimethicone instead? Can I add PQ 10 at 0,2%.

Glycerine-5%

Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium 0.6%

Hydrolysed wheat protein 3%

PEG 12 DIMETHICONE 3%

Sodium Lauroyl sarcosinate 17%

Decyl glucoside 11%

CAPB 6%

Preservative

citric acid to adjust pH

Water made up to 100%

ketchito replied 1 month ago 3 Members · 8 Replies
8 Replies

arhlene.lyons

Member
November 16, 2024 at 7:18 pm

I mean my hair feels really thick. The shampoo thickness is perfect.
Aniela

Member
November 17, 2024 at 8:17 am
Hi,

While I know nothing about brazilian treatment, and how should one take care of such a treated hair, I did find out from listening to The Beauty Brains podcast (Perry&Valerie) that decyl glucoside is a pretty poor choice in shampoos- hence the dry hair you’ve mentioned.

Regarding the use of polyquats, here’s an article written by Perry last year which can help you choosing the right one: https://www.ulprospector.com/knowledge/14571/pcc-polyquaterniums-in-cosmetic-formulas/#:~:text=Polyquaternium%2D7%3A%20Commonly%20used%20in,static%20and%20moisture%2Dretaining%20properties.
- This reply was modified 1 month ago by Aniela.
- arhlene.lyons
  
  Member
  November 17, 2024 at 9:41 pm
  
  Hi Aniela.
  
  Thank you so much for your help. I will choose another glucoside and look at the article.
  
  I am determined to get this right.
ketchito

Member
November 18, 2024 at 5:16 am

Cut both the Guar HPTC and the silicone in half. Then, if you require extra slip, increase the silicone little by little.
- arhlene.lyons
  
  Member
  November 18, 2024 at 8:21 am
  
  Thank you ketchito. I will do that. Do you think the Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and the Sodium Lauroyl sarcosinate will be okay together?
ketchito

Member
November 19, 2024 at 7:05 am

Yes. Cationic polymers are commonly incorporated in shampoos with anionic surfactants without issue.
- arhlene.lyons
  
  Member
  November 19, 2024 at 9:04 pm
  
  Thank you for your help ketchito. Im waiting for a Sodium Lauroyl sarcosinate delivery before continuing.
  
  I make brilliant shampoo pucks (bars) and was wondering about switching to that Anionic sf I.e SCI. I know that you dissolve it in CAPB but that it may hydrolyze out. What does that mean? Settle out? Will this happen under certain conditions eg concentrations, other ingredients? Should I avoid it?
  - ketchito
    
    Member
    November 20, 2024 at 7:21 am
    
    What it means is that under certain conditions, SCI could suffer hydrolysis since it has an ester functional group. You can check supplier’s website to check what’s the safe pH range of use, but I believe it’s close to 6. Now, that doesn’t mean that at a pH of 5.8 it won’t work since hydrolysis takes time depending on different factors like pH (it will be for sure faster if your pH is at 2).