Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Shampoo Bar and Tangly Hair

  • Shampoo Bar and Tangly Hair

    Posted by cosmeticchick on February 25, 2025 at 4:07 am

    Hi everyone! I’m working on a shampoo bar and trying for a pourable-ish formula. The problem I keep getting is that whist washing my hair gets quite tangly. After washing out it feels fine but personally I think the washing experience isn’t great.

    The formula is

    15% Cetearyl Alcohol
    10% Stearic Acid
    3% BTMS 80
    1% Olive Silicone Alternative
    35% SCI
    10% Cocamidopropyl Betaine
    24% SCS
    0.5% Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
    0.5% Polyquaternium-10
    1% Preservative

    Could it be the fatty alcohol or stearic acid causing this? The liquid shampoo that I’m comparing it to uses dimethicone but the reason I’m avoiding silicone is that I want to take it camping and want to use ingredients that are biodegradable.

    Thanks so much! On paper it looks good to me but yes, the actual experience of using it is not as great as I hoped. 🙂

    hollis-whyte replied 1 day, 22 hours ago 6 Members · 7 Replies
  • 7 Replies
  • ketchito

    Member
    February 25, 2025 at 6:37 am

    Cetearyl alcohol, stearic acid and BTMS could be impairing your SH performance. Try one sample without them.

    And just as a reference, silicones are not biodegradable, but they do degrade (just not because of bugs).

  • ozgirl

    Member
    February 25, 2025 at 5:01 pm

    Stearic Acid is going to be draggy on the hair. Try replacing it with some more SCI.

  • MaidenOrangeBlossom

    Member
    March 9, 2025 at 7:30 pm

    More than 3 times the amount you need 15% Cetearyl Alcohol
    Eliminate completely, this will make hair feel like wax 10% Stearic Acid
    Might be too much, cationic ingredients can do the opposite of what you want 3% BTMS 80
    Almost sure this is unnecessary 1% Olive Silicone Alternative
    Great ingredient 35% SCI
    Also good 10% Cocamidopropyl Betaine
    Increase substantially 24% SCS
    Can be eliminated or used at a lower percentage 0.5% Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
    Never used but everyone loves 0.5% Polyquaternium-10
    Necessary 1% Preservative

  • cosmeticchick

    Entrepreneur
    March 25, 2025 at 7:13 am

    Thanks everyone - it was definitely Stearic Acid that was the issue in the end. 🙂

    • MaidenOrangeBlossom

      Member
      March 28, 2025 at 11:06 pm

      You made a good lotion bar. But when I create shampoo bars that fail I use it for dishes or skin. This makes a good skin conditioning soap.

  • catherine.pratt

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 27, 2025 at 1:37 am

    Hi there, I can strongly agree with you that these bars are not a great way to wash your hair if you are looking for something of a good time. They are infact the opposite. However, if you are looking to go camping or not wanting to lug around loads of heavy liquids, then this is your alternative. There are quite a lot of natural alternative silicones. If you want to know more let me know. cheers Dr Cath.

    • hollis-whyte

      Member
      March 29, 2025 at 8:06 am

      What alternatives would you recommend Dr, Pratt? I like to use Caprylyl capryate or C12-15 AB in thin viscosity moisturisers but not shampoo bars because it’s too drying. Would Squalane/Hemi Squalane be substantial enough? On a different note, were you on The Eco Well podcast with Jen? Perhaps I saw you in interview on You Tube?

Log in to reply.

Chemists Corner