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Shampoo
Posted by Ann_Teak on April 2, 2017 at 8:00 pmHello everyone.
I am new to this forum, and i was just hoping you might of been able to give me a bit of advice, i am experimenting with making a solid shampoo bar, i am wanting to include Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (sci) and Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (SLSA) powders or just SCI as it is much cheaper to buy. My question is what are the maximum %’s for each of these in a solid shampoo, that will pass a cosmetic safety certificate assessment. I can find the maximum amounts for liquid shampoos but not solid. Also would i be correct in thinking that to make a true anhydrous shampoo bar, which would pass a anhydrous safety certificate assessment, i can not include any ingredients that includes water, for instance decyl glucoside as it is half water? Many thanks in advance.
johnb replied 7 years, 7 months ago 7 Members · 15 Replies -
15 Replies
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You still need preservatives in an anhydrous product because the user will introduce water to it.
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Hi Belassi, thank you for your reply, yes i have a preservative in my recipe already.
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Is this an innovative formulation or are you emulating an already marketed product? If the latter, which product(s)?
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product-specific legal limits for preservatives are determined based on the product type, how it’s used, how much of it is used, and the parts of the body on which it’s used; the physical form of the product (whether it’s liquid or solid) is irrelevant
also, what’s an anhydrous safety certificate assessment?
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Good morning, thank you for your replies, i am making this product from scratch, I’m trying not to copy any one elses formula on the market in the UK. I am not a scientist and have no chemical back ground, just a retired hairdresser. I have been told that if my product is anhydrous it will only require a cosmetic safety assessment/ report and no further testing (stability, preservative testing etc) if this is incorrect please do let me know. As mentioned before i have included a preservative in my recipe, dehydroacetic acid & benzyl alcohol, this is in liquid form. Many thanks.
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As this is a “new concept”, can you tell us how the product is intended to be used?
I’m not trying to dissuade you but what makes you think that your idea hasn’t been thought of, and rejected or fallen away from the shop shelves previously?
I’m old enough to remember powder shampoos which were mixed with water just before use (the powder had a strong sternutatory action characteristic of many powdered detergents). They were sold under the Vaseline brand and I still remember the green and yellow packet.
There were also leaf shampoos. These were made from a sheet of thin paper impregnated with a strong detergent solution and dried. They were sold under the name “Water Lilies”. The idea was to wet the hair and rub the Water Lily sheet on the head to release the active. The idea was good in one way as it prevented overuse of the shampoo material.
If your product is in the form of a bar to be used in a similar way to soap, I should emphasise that synthetic detergents behave in a completely different way in their behaviour in water compared to soap. It took a lot of development work to formulate products such as Dove bars so that they didn’t disappear as an unpleasant sludge shortly after contact with water.
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Hi Johnb,
This will only be very small scale, selling at craft fairs and one or two selling platforms, there are other very similar products on the market at the moment eg lush and bomb cosmetics, but these products contain a lot of extras which I would prefer to leave out, colours glitters ect, and stick to the basics, I’ve looked at the ‘soap’ shampoo bar alternatives which are out there but i don’t believe ‘soap’ washes hair correctly, it leaves a nasty residue behind that you then need to remove with various vinegar rinses, which play havoc with the hairs and scalps pH. I have made a few different batches using SCI powder, which do seem to work but they all include the liquid surfactant decyl glucoside which i have been told i can not use if i want my product to be anhydrous, as it is made with 50% water, do you believe this to be true?
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You could look at the ingredient decalarations of the products you are trying to imitate and omit the you find superfluous. Similarly, with the soap shampoo bars. Are these actually soap or are they soap/detergent blends? The use of a combination will often eliminate the residues problem.
Why are you so concerned about the anhydrous aspect? If, as you claim, you have formulations that work, I don’t understand why the presence of a minor amount of water is a problem.
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The fact that your product is anhydrous does not mean you can skip stability testing and preservative testing. It only means you have a higher chance of passing a microbial test. Stability test…well, you never know with stability testing and whether the product is anhydrous or not is irrelevant. You should always do a stability test.
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The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) published the safety assessment of sodium cocoyl isethionate
with the conclusion “safe for use in cosmetic formulations at 50% in rinse-off products and at 17% in leave-on
products
This % doesn’t however guarantee that your product passes a cosmetic product safety assessment if that’s what you mean. Regarding Microbiological quality and stability, you always need to prove both according to the EU regulation. This is done with testing and/or scientific reasoning. What is needed exactly varies and should be discussed with your safety assessor. -
Hi David
Thank you for your message and thank you for answering my initial question! I am now in discussions with the company who is carrying out the product safety assessment. Kindest regards.
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Hi, I am new to this forum. Requesting help for my natural shampoo . Currently I am making natural shampoo with coconut, rice bran,castor and palm oil mix with caustic potash for the shampoo base. I add sodium chloride, Gaur gum, D Panthenol, CABP, herbal extract, Glycerin and essential oils.
The problem is that the after the use the hair is very rough and also a lot of tangling.Appreciate your help.
Regi -
regipa, you need to begin a new thread to be able to get proper responses to your enquiry.
To begin, though, your main error in the formulation is that you are using soap as a base not a synthetic detergent.
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Thank you johnb. I have posted it as a new thread. do we get any natural detergent?
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There are natural detergents but they are either prohibitively expensive and/or unsuitable for this end use.
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