Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Serum Sucks Won’t Stop Peeling

  • Serum Sucks Won’t Stop Peeling

    Posted by ProfessorHerb on February 25, 2022 at 5:32 am
                                       

    Water

    Vegetable Glycerine 7.000
    Urea 5.000
    GDL 2.000
    Biokelp Ferment 9.000
    Sea Code 2.000
    Sacha Inchi Oil 2.000
    VItamin A 1.500
    Natrasmooth 2.000
    Apple Stemcell 2.000
    Oatmeal 0.500
    Panthenol 1.000
    Magnesium 3.000
    Matrixyl 3000 3.000
    Ceremide Complex 3.000
    Argireline 5.000
    Tranexemic 2.500
    GABA 1.000
    DMAE 0.800
    Green tea Extract 1.000
    Leucidal 2.500
    This serum formula keeps peeling and I can’t figure out why. I don’t heat this formula or add an emulsifier.
    ngarayeva001 replied 2 years, 10 months ago 4 Members · 3 Replies
  • 3 Replies
  • Graillotion

    Member
    February 25, 2022 at 5:44 am

    First things first…. No preservative!  (And don’t say leucidal.)

    Can you define peeling?  Your skin is peeling…or the product is flaking off your skin?

    How do you expect water and oil to mix….without an emulsifier?

    What form is the Vit A?

    What is the pH?

    What is it supposed to do?

    Sorry….but being frank…this looks far more like a shopping list from a repacker …. than a formula. :( 

  • Unknown Member

    Deleted User
    February 25, 2022 at 11:16 am

    As mentioned above, you need to introduce an emulsifier or a solubiliser (if you can reduce your oil concentration to below 1%), otherwise the oils will separate out of the rest of your formula pretty quickly.

    Any dry materials such as the oatmeal which will swell and absorb water will then shrink and dry out when the water evaporates. If you used them at a high level, you would see a cracking powder on your skin, like clay! I would not advise the use of these in a leave-on formulation, but you may be able to improve the characteristics by introducing film-formers such as PVP or VP/VA.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    February 25, 2022 at 11:50 pm

    Agree with what Graillotion said. Everything but the kitchen sink here. You need to simplify it. Keep the urea and one extract if you really need to have it. Probably keep GDL but make sure that the final pH is urea friendly.

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