Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Serum dries up with a layer?

  • Serum dries up with a layer?

    Posted by yesunyi on November 28, 2020 at 10:14 am

    I have been trying to formulate a face serum with ingredient percentage as below:

    water ~88%
    1,3-butylene glycol 8 %
    xanthan gum 0.3%
    sodium HA 0.1%
    allantoin 0.15%
    glycerin 2%
    hydroxyethylcellulose 0.3%
    sodium benzoate 0.3%
    potassium sorbate 0.15%
    & other liquid extracts 

    However when i applied it on skin, after about 30 minutes, it forms a slightly opaque gum layer like after a glue dries up…what’s wrong with my formula? Would adding more of glycerin help with this?

    MarkBroussard replied 3 years, 11 months ago 4 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • Paprik

    Member
    November 29, 2020 at 6:05 pm

    Hello,

    I’m not sure, but maybe the combination of XG and HEC? 
    I usually don’t use these in serums. I simply thicken it with higher input of HA. 

  • jemolian

    Member
    November 30, 2020 at 12:31 am

    Perhaps try only using one of the gum in a test and see if that’s the issue. 

  • yesunyi

    Member
    December 2, 2020 at 11:01 am

    thanks guys, its probably the gum. i’ll make some adjustment. thanks  :)

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 2, 2020 at 3:16 pm

    What Molecular Weight HA are you using?  If it’s a white film, it’s probably the HA.  Q: Why are you using both HEC and Xanthan Gum? … you only need one of them.

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