Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Seeking help in choosing natural preservative for glass jar face cream

  • Seeking help in choosing natural preservative for glass jar face cream

    Posted by LouiseB on July 25, 2017 at 5:07 pm

    Hello,

    I’m working on preserving a skincare cream with naturally derived preservatives and was wondering if anyone can offer some advice on promising combinations for a face cream in a glass jar (open container…yikes!) I’ve been reading a lot of threads on this website, which have been a huge help, particularly for highlighting how tricky it is to preserve a product with Ecocert/naturally derived preservatives.
    I have a couple of questions for the formula below. I tried Leucidal Liquid at 4% with potassium sorbate at 0.5%, but the cream started to smell bad after two months. I’d like for it to last about a year. 
    Some questions…
    - What is the likelihood Natapres (Glycerin, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Populus Tremuloides Bark Extract, Gluconolactone) at 2.5% plus potassium sorbate at 0.5% will preserve this cream in an open container for about a year?
    - Is it worth combining Natapres with other preservation products such as sodium benzoate or glyceryl caprylate for extra preserving power?
    - Faced with choosing between Natapres+sodium benzoate, Benzyl alcohol+DHA, gluconolactone+sodium benzoate, which is likely to work best for a glass jarred product? Any other suggestions?

    Thank you for any advice!

    Here is the face cream formula - 
    Formula (ingredient followed by percentage):

    OILS (24.5%)
    Shea 9
    Cocoa Butter 1.5
    Grapeseed oil 5
    Rosehip Seed Oil 3
    Jojoba Oil 5
    Borage Oil 1

    WAXES & EMULSIFIERS 
    Milliard ewax 5.5
    Beeswax 0.5

    WATER 
    Aloe vera gel 15
    Water  46
    Vegetable glycerin 2

    BOTANICAL EXTRACTS
    Alcohol tincture 3

    ANTIOXIDANTS 
    Vit E 0.1
    Rosemary oleoresin extract 0.05

    PRESERVATIVES ???

    LouiseB replied 7 years, 4 months ago 6 Members · 10 Replies
  • 10 Replies
  • belassi

    Member
    July 25, 2017 at 5:35 pm

    - What is the likelihood Natapres (Glycerin, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Populus Tremuloides Bark Extract, Gluconolactone) at 2.5% plus potassium sorbate at 0.5% will preserve this cream in an open container for about a year?
    I’d say, no likelihood at all. If you want to do this you will have to use a hurdle system and a preservative such as KEM NAT.

  • Microformulation

    Member
    July 25, 2017 at 7:39 pm

    An open glass jar pretty much compromises her attempt at a hurdle strategy to a large extent. I would consider more secure packaging.

  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    July 25, 2017 at 8:37 pm

    Is this a continually open container? If so, you will most likely not be able to preserve it naturally, unless you can really minimize the amount of water you need to use.

    You might want to look into Laurest 1220

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    July 25, 2017 at 9:07 pm

    Why open all the time? Too much bio-demand from airborne micro-organisms and hand/finger dispensing?I don’t know of any preservative which would work.

  • belassi

    Member
    July 25, 2017 at 9:19 pm

    Sure. It would have to be an airless container.

  • LouiseB

    Member
    July 25, 2017 at 10:08 pm

    Oh dear, sorry, I meant a glass jar that is opened each day for use! not continually open. I’d like to try this in a jar as opposed to a pump bottle to start with. Thanks for the feedback, and thanks @Belassi @Bobzchemist I’ll check out KEM NAT and Laurest 1220. I see Benzyl Alcohol and DHA used often in store-sold face creams like this - https://www.trilogyproducts.com/us/ultra-hydrating-face-cream
    But I’ve tried it in the past and couldn’t mask the scent of the Benzyl alcohol so am looking into alternatives…

    sorry @Bobzchemist  @Microformulation  and @DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ 

  • belassi

    Member
    July 25, 2017 at 10:58 pm

    I see a big problem. The alcohol content. I’m sorry but that can only work in an airless system. In a jar, the alcohol evaporates out over the course of days or at the most, weeks and the whole rheology changes - usually for the worse.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    July 26, 2017 at 2:10 am

    @LouiseB

    Of the options you have listed, you might try:

    (1)  Chealating Agent 0.2% (Dissolvine GL47 or perhaps Sodium Phytate)
    (2)  1,3-Propanediol 6%
    (3)  Gluconodeltalactone + Sodium Benzoate 1.5%
    (4)  Glyceryl Caprylate 1.0%

    Make sure your final product pH is <5.5

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    July 26, 2017 at 3:28 am

    Yes best bet is use Geoguard Ultra Gluconolactone and BA which at 1.5 percent will bring ph to 5.let it equilibrate overnight before taking final Ph as it will drop.

  • LouiseB

    Member
    July 26, 2017 at 5:36 pm

    Super, I’ve ordered Gluconodeltalactone + Sodium Benzoate (Geogard Ultra) and will let you know how it goes, thanks so much @MarkBroussard  and @DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    and @Belassi I’ll see how the alcohol tincture content affects my product - so far I’ve included 3% with pretty stable results over time.

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