Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Skin sea Buckthorn seed oil and babassu oil

  • sea Buckthorn seed oil and babassu oil

    Posted by Dtdang on September 15, 2018 at 4:47 pm

    Hello all!
    I plan to use sea buckthorn seed oil & babassu oil on my new trial batch. Anyone had used these two ingredients. Please give me advise. I appreciate any comments.

    Microformulation replied 6 years, 1 month ago 4 Members · 27 Replies
  • 27 Replies
  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 15, 2018 at 5:23 pm

    They are oils. They will be occlusive and decrease TEWL. Any claims beyond that would likely have poor Science behind it, especially when you consider the topical administration.

  • Dtdang

    Member
    September 15, 2018 at 5:38 pm

    Thanks @Microformulation.
    Babassu oil has 45% lauric acid that has anti-bacteria, anti-acne?
    Sea buckthorn seed oil has very high polyunsaturated acids that are anti-aging
    specially gamma-linoleic acid?
    Both have comedogenic to be 1. 

  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 15, 2018 at 5:57 pm
    Babassu oil has 45% lauric acid that has anti-bacterial, anti-acne?

    Provide citations.
    Both have comedogenic to be 1.

    You may want to read up on the protocols for determining comedogenicity. You will see that it is not as exact a rating system as some give it credit. It is more of a general guide.
  • Dtdang

    Member
    September 15, 2018 at 6:20 pm

    In-cosmetics.com 
    researchgate
    webmd

  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 15, 2018 at 7:05 pm

    I was leaning towards credible studies (credentialed, good design, large sample size) that show that Babussa oil has significant antibacterial and anti-acne properties.

  • Dtdang

    Member
    September 15, 2018 at 7:18 pm

    @Microformulation
    do you used them before?

  • Dtdang

    Member
    September 15, 2018 at 7:23 pm

    Can I subtitute shea butter, cocoa butter, mango butter with babassu oil?
    shea, cocoa, butter have high % Oleic that is major causing acne (If Oleic > Linoleic). 

  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 15, 2018 at 8:06 pm
    I have used them all. They are sources of citations, not citations in and of themselves.
    As I recall. there was a study testing a microemulsion of Babassu Oil for induced edema in the ears of mice by a Brazilian group back in 2017. It hasn’t gone into human testing.
    My overwhelming point is that if you are going to present a raw material as having wonderful and credible claims that are essentially drug claims (“anti-bacterial, anti-acne?”) you should qualify the studies. 


  • Dtdang

    Member
    September 15, 2018 at 8:56 pm

    @Microformulation, thanks.
    I am not interesting to marketing the product. Just for fun! and giving my samples to friends trying out for slowing down aging process.

  • Dtdang

    Member
    September 15, 2018 at 9:06 pm

    @Microformulation, thanks a lot. 
    what is differences between emulsion & micro-emulsion? 

    Thanks in advance @Microformulation

  • belassi

    Member
    September 15, 2018 at 9:25 pm

    If you want anti bacterial from lauric acid, why not dispense with the oil and simply add monolaurin?

  • Dtdang

    Member
    September 15, 2018 at 9:46 pm

    @Belassi, thanks for wonderful idea.
    Beside the anti-bacterial from babassu oil, I want to have cream that is emusified with babassu oil & sea buckthorn seed oil that has very high polyunsaturated acids. These acids are good for skin? 
    I wonder that what % of each for the most effect?

    Thanks a lot!

  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 15, 2018 at 10:41 pm
    what are differences between emulsion & micro-emulsion
    It took 20 seconds to find a credible source for your question. No offense, but doing your research will make you a better Formulator.
  • Dtdang

    Member
    September 15, 2018 at 10:48 pm

    @Microformulation, thanks a lot for the link. I understand microemulsion.

  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 15, 2018 at 10:52 pm

    @DtdangIt is a great topic to research. It has taken off in the CBD Industry. Many of the producers in CA, WA, and CO are using ultrasonic emulsifiers with solubilizers such as SPAN’s and Cremophor EL. I have had the opportunity to design Formulations for this Industry using this technology. 

  • belassi

    Member
    September 16, 2018 at 1:20 am

    @Microformulation: I have been wondering about ultrasonic emulsifiers for ages. Any idea of how many watts? 

  • Dtdang

    Member
    September 16, 2018 at 1:49 am

    @Microformulation, thanks. 
    I am interested on finding the ingredients that can work together for total anti-aging: wrinkles, dark spot, firming, & lifting

  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 16, 2018 at 2:43 am
    @Belassi I have a pdf of the manual on my work computer. I will try and post it on Monday.
    The company that they used was great about giving them initial training and technical support, but there was still a steep learning curve. I know at least 2 companies overheated the probe by running it all out for too long. They have also said sometimes the final products smelled “scorched.”
    The company was very secretive about the solubilizer bases. They provided those and reluctantly would reveal what they contained. After that, it was easy to knock off the base using a simple HLB equation. There are numerous articles that discuss the theory and practice behind the surfactants used.
  • Dtdang

    Member
    September 16, 2018 at 3:19 am

    @Microformulation, thanks
    hlb system is good for starting point. I knew the concept quite well. The difficulty is to identify the good ingredients. I will try next batch next week. 
    My base is very good, no soaping effect, no grease. It is just for fun!

  • Dtdang

    Member
    September 16, 2018 at 3:20 am

    I will check your post. Thanks 

  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 18, 2018 at 4:23 am
  • Dtdang

    Member
    September 18, 2018 at 4:44 am
  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 18, 2018 at 2:11 pm
    @DtdangThat is a pretty serious piece of equipment, not something a beginner or an at home Formulator would ever use. It was really more for Belassi’s benefit.
  • Sibech

    Member
    September 19, 2018 at 8:10 pm
    @Microformulation That’s an interesting piece of equipment.
    What are, in your opinion, the advantages of using an ultrasonic homogeniser compared to a rotor-stator homogeniser when formulating microemulsions? - reduced solubiliser percentages? shorter processing time?
  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 19, 2018 at 8:38 pm
    If used correctly, they are much better at producing the microemulsions. As you can see in that manual, you can set-up a lab-top production set-up.
    It is a huge advantage for some accounts, in the fact that they may have limited technical staff on-hand and the companies provide staff training and the surfactant bases needed.
    Now, that doesn’t mean they don’t screw-up. The biggest issue I have encountered is people over-heating the bar-bell probe and either burning out the probe of “scorching” the microemulsion. The fails of these processes have a very distinct “scorched” smell.
    This Technology has been around for a while. Several years ago at a plant, I worked at we got a Heischler (another system) on loan. We didn’t use it for microemulsions but for sunscreens.
Page 1 of 2

Log in to reply.

Chemists Corner