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Scalp serum (O/W emulsion) FAIL! PLEASE HELP!
Phase A:
Distilled water (80%)
Herbal extract (5%) {extracted by 70% ethanol}
Phase B:
Wanult oil (1%)
Rose geranium E.O. (0.6%)
Tocopherol mixed (0.4%)
Symbiosolv Clear + (5%)
Phase C:
Sodium Ascorbyl phosphate (2%)
Niacinamide B3 (1.2%)
Pyridoxin HCl B6 (0.3%)
D Biotin B7 (0.5%)
Phase D:
Clear Xanthan gum (0.5%)
Acacia gum (0.5%)
Propanediol (2%)
Preservative:
Optiphen + (1%)
PROCEDURE:
1) Mix Phase A and Phase B thoroughly in two separate breakers, then combine to make the O/W emulsion.
2) Check the pH of the emulsion, should be around 6-6.5 for the vitamins to be effective. Add Phase C and stir. Check and adjust pH again to around 6.5.
3) Mix all the ingredients of Phase D together and gently add it to the emulsion to thicken it.
4) Later, add the preservative.
PROBLEM:
1) After few days for keeping the emulsion undisturbed, I can notice the oil droplets floating on the surface of the emulsion.
2) There is a darker slimy thing settled at the bottom of the beaker. I don’t know what it is?
Can anyone help? what went wrong?
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3 Replies
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In my humble opinion, far too complicated.
I started my company in 2006 and had two factories with exports globally and 90% Private Label revenue. And the product I formulated was called Hair Oil using just high quality plant oils with essential oils for fragrance.
And for me, it’s all about “trading down,” down to the local, the simple, the unrefined but raw and true.
Serum? Give me a break, it’s associated with blood.
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I would recommend adding xanthan and acacia earlier in the process, ideally before you add anything else- you are adding them after salts and that can inhibit full hydration. I’d reduce your tocopherol to 0.1% as well, it’s too high. You can also try adding just your oil phase to water (without the salts and polymers) and see how quickly that mixture separates. If it’s pretty fast you might need additional solubilizer or emulsifier- I’m not sure the walnut oil can be solubilized by the symbiosolv.
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I would apply @evchem2 suggestions.
Regarding the solubilizer, the manufacturer lists, under “Incompatibilities”: vegetable oils and cationic surfactants.
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