• Formulating

  SAP with Niacinamide

  Posted by Eugene on October 4, 2024 at 4:30 am

  Hello formulators!
  Quick question:
  Is it ok to pair Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Niacinamide in one formulation?
  Both components need high PH 6-7. Also is it a normal PH for sensitive skin?

  Thank you!

  • This discussion was modified 1 month, 2 weeks ago by  Eugene.

  Juggsy replied 1 month, 1 week ago 5 Members · 7 Replies

  • niacinamide
  • sap
• 7 Replies

• 

  chemicalmatt

  Member

  October 4, 2024 at 12:53 pm

  Yes you may combine the two. That range serves mainly for the sake of solvency not efficacy. Niacinamide (aka: nicotinamide, but nobody likes to call it that) is a tautomer so it does have a hydrogen relocated depending on the solution pH. Now, you ask is neutral pH OK for sensitive skin? Yes, of course it is.

  • 

    Eugene

    Member

    October 11, 2024 at 4:42 am

    Thank you for your answer. But now I’m confused. You say that, the range serves mainly for the sake of solvency not efficacy, but supplyers say, that ideal PH is 6 and it can hydrolyze and form nicotinic acid at higher or lower pH, which can result in skin irritation. What about SAP? Can I adjust 5.5 PH for both ingredients?

    Thank you in advance

• 

  Perry44

  Administrator

  October 7, 2024 at 7:28 am

  Of course there is also the question, why do you want to combine them? What do you hope to achieve by using both actives?

  • 

    Eugene

    Member

    October 11, 2024 at 4:49 am

    Hello Perry. Thank you for answer. Using both actives I hope to strengthen pigmentation lightening properties. Both ingrediends are good at preventing inflamations. My product addresses aging people, who struggle with pigmentation, hormonal acne and dull skin. Do you have any recommendations on PH?

    Thanks in advance!

• 

  MarkBroussard

  Member

  October 7, 2024 at 7:15 pm

  @Eugene

  The issue you’re going to have to contend with is that SAP will turn your solution yellow over time. I would just go with straight Niacinamide or Ascorbyl Glucoside instead of SAP.

  • 

    Eugene

    Member

    October 11, 2024 at 4:56 am

    Thank you for the answer, Mark! I’ve checked all suppliers I know, but couldn’t find Ascorbyl Glucoside. Can you please explain why it is better then SAP? I’ve made serum with 4% SAP without niacinamide. The PH at the beginning was 6 and it hasn’t changed colod during 3 months, while I was testing it.

    Thank you in advance!

    • 

      Juggsy

      Member

      October 13, 2024 at 8:21 pm

      Cosroma and DKSH both sell ascorbyl glucoside. I would contact your local supplier of these two companies. Ashland also have some AG in their perfectyl™ biofunctional (supplier blurb reads: perfectyl™ biofunctional is a high-tech chamomile extract, inspired by new aesthetic techniques, to clarify & smoothen skin flaws (such as pores & hyperpigmentation) for all ethnicities. Ashland uses fresh & living chamomile, Zeta Fraction™ technology and A.I to reveal the science of clear skin with a pure, patented extract naturally rich in GABA & flower acids.)

      I’m with Mark on this though, I believe it’s better than SAP. I did struggle to find a supplier in Australia though. But, in general, I think ascorbyl glucoside coverts to AA quicker than SAP. It’s also more gentle (anecdotal). I also think it’s better for brightening formulations over SAP.

      • This reply was modified 1 month, 1 week ago by  Juggsy.

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