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Ritamulse Questions Need Help
Hello friends;
First sorry for my poor English. I hope you understand what I mean.
I am trying to prepare hand cream just for experiment. I have only sodium stearoyl lactylate, glyceryl stearate and cetearyl alcohol as emulsifier.There is a emulsifying wax with name Ritamulse/Ecomulse.
It’s INCI:
60% Glyceryl stearate
25% Cetearyl alcohol
15% Sodium stearoyl lactylate
And recommended dosage of Ritamulse 8% for creams.
So if you apply as suggested 8%, amount of the ingredients in cream:
4.8% glyceryl stearate
2% cetearyl alcohol
1.2% sodium stearoyl lactylateBy the way in UK, they are sold seperately as MF Emulsifier (sodium stearoyl lactylate) and VE Emulsifier (glyceryl stearate) and cetearyl alcohol and suggested use for creams:
3% Glyceryl stearate (in oil phase) + 2% cetearyl alcohol (in oil phase)+ 5% sodium stearoyl lactylate (in water phase)Unfortunately Ritamulse/Ecomulse, MF Emulsifier and VE Emulsifier for cosmetic use, is not available in my country. My sodium stearoyl lactylate and glyceryl stearate is produced for food industry.
Anyway I tried to prepare hand creams with this two formula:
One as copy of Ritamulse, other one is according to UK web pages suggestions:
INCI:
Oil Phase:
8% Sweet Almond oil
2% Grapeseed oil
2% Shea Butter
2% Coconut butter
3% Glyceryl stearate
2% Cetearyl alcohol
Water Phase:
3% Glycerine
5% Sodium stearoyl lactylate
71.5% Water
Cool Down Phase:
1% Preservative
0.5% Esential oilResult: Failed. One day later emulsion is seperated.
Also I tried Ritamulse ratios:
INCI:
Oil Phase:
8% Sweet Almond oil
2% Grapeseed oil
2% Shea Butter
2% Coconut butter
4.8% Glyceryl stearate
2% Cetearyl alcohol
1.2% Sodium stearoyl lactylate
Water Phase:
3% Glycerine
73.5 Water
Coold Down Phase:
1% Preservative
0.5% Esential oilResult: Failed again. 1-2 hours later emulsion is seperated.
I mixed two phases between 75-80 celcius degree and stir at least for 5 minutes at that temperature and continue stirring intermittent till room temperature. I tried both with stick blender, electric hand whish and kitchen whisk.
Why my emulsions is not stable. Any ideas? Thank you for your helps.
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