Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Skin Retinol

  • Retinol

    Posted by jeremien on March 1, 2018 at 3:08 pm

    I start to look to retinol formulation. All ingredients i can find are retinol stabilized with polysorbate or in oil. I can also find ester form (palmitate or acetate) of retinol.  I wonder if pure retinol as a powder is available?  not sure that it is stable enought.  

    aperson replied 6 years, 6 months ago 4 Members · 7 Replies
  • 7 Replies
  • Microformulation

    Member
    March 1, 2018 at 3:56 pm

    The Palmitate is Retinyl Palmitate, not Retinol, but a precursor. Retinol itself is a fickle beast and you would not work with it as a base Raw material. There are all sorts of methods by which distributors will attempt to stabilize it including an effective anti-oxidant system (likely not a natural system or want that you would design without follow-on testing) or encapsulation (a broad term for multiple sub-technologies). Some Cosmetic manufacturers will add special processing steps to further protect the compound.

  • jeremien

    Member
    March 1, 2018 at 4:50 pm

    @Microformulation  people who encapsulate or stabilize it  must find the pure retinol somwhere isn’t it? 

  • Microformulation

    Member
    March 1, 2018 at 5:29 pm

    It depends on how much you can buy.

    Some of the Retailers sell the Retistar, a BASF Product (https://www.ulprospector.com/en/na/PersonalCare/Detail/75/14135/RetiSTAR-Stabilized-Retinol?st=1&sl=57946969&crit=a2V5d29yZDpbUmV0aXN0YXJd&ss=2&k=Retistar&t=Retistar)

    Formulator Sample Shop sells retail some encapsulated versions.

    Now, if you are a funded Contract Manufacturer, there are so many numerous suppliers and a Prospector search will give you that information. I did a product with the Devereaux version several months ago that worked out well. BE READY, they run t >$1500 a pound and hardly sell at under 1 KG MOQ’s.

    They get the pure retinol and from what I understand, they get first dibs.

    Why the need for “pure” retinol? Use a protected version. It is unstable over time. Unless you are a raw material manufacturer, let them make the product better for you.
     

  • Max

    Member
    March 2, 2018 at 4:33 am

    Hello, I used to make Retinol/Retinal… Not my favorite, as mentioned, Retinol is very unstable. As recommanded earlier, I would use, if possible a precursor like Retinol Acetate … :)

  • jeremien

    Member
    March 2, 2018 at 9:14 am

    @Max  I thought that retinal was protected by a patent. The problem with Retinol Acetate or palmitate, is the efectivness, much lower than retinol

  • Max

    Member
    March 4, 2018 at 11:10 pm

    No  idea about the patent protection. Now yes they are not as effective but stable… you have to find a win/win solution I guess

  • aperson

    Member
    May 7, 2018 at 7:26 am

    @Max

     I used to make Retinol/Retinal.

    any chance you went the cleaving beta-carotene route?  

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