Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating reducing the tackiness of cottonwood sap in body care products

  • reducing the tackiness of cottonwood sap in body care products

    Posted by Astrid on April 8, 2024 at 2:12 pm

    Hi, I have been using cottonwood sap in various personal care products. DIY, friends and family usage.

    My goal is to use the highest concentration of sap possible in body care without the product being tacky. After harvest, the buds are immersed in 99% isopropyl alcohol and strained twice. The resulting liquid is heated until a dense and very sticky resin is left.

    To incorporate the resin into other products (lotions, balms, etc.) I have added benzoate ester 1:1, heated gently and mixed. This gives me a solution that’s much less tacky, concentrated, and usable in a variety of products. Seems to work fine- I’m able to get a lot more of the sap into the end product than I experienced by oil infusion.

    I would appreciate any other suggestions!

    Microformulation replied 7 months, 2 weeks ago 4 Members · 9 Replies
  • 9 Replies
  • PhilGeis

    Member
    April 9, 2024 at 5:44 am

    Can’t help re your inquiry - but why cottonwood sap? How did you decide it was safe in cosmetics?

    • Graillotion

      Member
      April 9, 2024 at 3:08 pm

      The why @PhilGeis …. It has been around as long as Frankincense and Myrhh. You might have heard it under the name of ‘Balm of Gilead’. (However,….I think most people are using a slightly different species…than the one used in ancient times.)

      I tried to ask Pharma about it many years ago …and it was a trigger…and only got a religious tirade for an answer. ???? My own research…. it was difficult to come up with the definitive ‘active’. (I moved on.) They do contain … Salicin. (Of course….much better ways to get that. ???? )

      Aloha.

      • PhilGeis

        Member
        April 9, 2024 at 3:50 pm

        but to what cosmetic benefit?

        • Astrid

          Member
          April 9, 2024 at 4:35 pm

          The sap from these trees (past and present, various types) can reduce pain and inflammation on external application. Of course, many other substances would for less effort and more effectively 🙂

          It is fairly tannic, and that could speak to initial antimicrobial/safety concerns. The 99% isopropyl soak, straining, heating, and benzoate ester would assist in safety here- and I (always) add a preservative. For lotions, typically Optiphen plus. Recognizing that this is a natural, foraged ingredient, and the risks associated with that, is a primary reason for formulating for personal use.

          Biggest benefit though? *The Surly Teenager* will participate in family foraging outings (without her phone! crazy right?) and enjoys making stuff with it.

          And, PhilGeis, it smells WONDERFUL

          I’d like to find a way to use a lot of it minus the sticky.

          • Graillotion

            Member
            April 9, 2024 at 6:29 pm

            The answer to tackiness…with this product…and any….

            1) Use less of it

            2) Add some butylene glycol to the formula

            3) Add any light weight ester…you know the drill… IPP, IPM, IL…etc… (D5 ????)

            Good luck.

            • Astrid

              Member
              April 9, 2024 at 10:11 pm

              Thank you! I appreciate your reply.

              I’ll give butylene glycol a try ???? it’s great in lotion (wait… “graillotion” of course!) I haven’t purchased any in a long time.

        • Graillotion

          Member
          April 9, 2024 at 6:33 pm

          Dr Geis, that would be the same answer as any product containing salicin. 🙂

          Actually….Pharma’s response…I found interesting….as he was always into TCM…and Eastern remedies with historical longevity. He always encouraged me to work with Frankincense, myrrh…and of course his ‘precious’ …. ginger. 🙂

      • Astrid

        Member
        April 9, 2024 at 4:38 pm

        Pharma and a religious tirade? Sounds like a Dan Brown novel… I am curious though.

  • Microformulation

    Member
    April 10, 2024 at 7:16 am

    Cottonwood Sap does have some salicins, but if you read any credible sources, it’s unlikely it would be converted to an active on the skin. It can’t be equated to salicylic acid due to this issue. It makes for a good marketing story though.

    Also were you to attempt to sell this to consumers, the lack of documentation of the raw materials (TDS/SDS) would be a barrier.

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