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Raspberry ketone as a multifunctional preservative
Posted by BathroomChemist on September 10, 2023 at 5:22 pmHas anyone tried Ashland’s Phyteq (raspberry ketone) as a multifunctional preservative? It only came onto the market in March of this year, so I suspect that very few people have tried it let alone heard of it. Lotioncrafter is selling Phyteq N, but it’s a bit concerning that it’s already a closeout item. I may call them this week to ask what happened. 0.5% raspberry ketone with 1% 1,2-hexanediol passed a microbial challenge test and was great against fungi. You can see the results of the test below, and also a link to their product description.
https://www.ashland.com/file_source/Ashland/Documents/PCR%20Feb%20Ashland%20IMCD.pdf
https://www.ashland.com/industries/personal-and-home-care/hair-care/phyteq-raspberry-iMicroformulation replied 12 months ago 5 Members · 9 Replies -
9 Replies
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Raspberry ketone as a multifuntional has been out a lot longer than March this year - the article you posted dates from February 2021.
I looked at it as part of a reformulation of a natural toothpaste. But being a flavour (raspberry ketone is primary a flavour ingredient) it obviously imparted a distinct raspberry flavour. Depending on your intended product, you may have distinct raspberry notes to cover. But we never progressed further than a lab sample. It has also been used previously as a weight-loss supplement (I doubt it was effective anyway).
We ended up using potassium sorbate.
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Thanks for your input. I wasn’t sure when it became available because another article said that phyteq raspberry i multifunctional was set to debut at In-cosmetics Global in March.
My product is a serum, and the raspberry odor might be acceptable if it’s mild. I just took a look at its molecular structure, and I’m worried about that phenolic hydrogen that, if I recall correctly, reacts with non-ionic surfactants in parabens to inactivate them. Since I’m using non-ionics at high concentrations, it might be a poor choice for my system.
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I don’t think it is very new. I checked my notes…and I spent March of 2022…trying to fit it in a deo formula (as an active)…and it certainly wasn’t a new concept…even then.
So been on the market a few years…and has NOT set the market on fire.
Neither of my consulting chemists….one of whom is Pharma…the Swiss genius…viewed it anything more than a ‘booster’, vs a full blown preservative that Ashland is touting it as.
So we viewed it more as a booster with skin benefits.
It did not make the final cut….for those following along at home.
Aloha.
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Since deo…is essentially a preservative soup anyway…. we had no idea the impact on preservation….since we were making something that was already….preservation on steroids. ????
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Another miracle “natural” preservative - broad spectrum, wide pH range, heat stable, even “multifunctional” and vegan and some wonderful data. That never happens. In real life, there are no such miracles - efficacy as it may be is due to chemical consitituent(s) alone or in combination at effecitive level(s).
As with any complex mixture, composition can vary from batch to batch. Presuming the miracle and as preservation is a critical function, supplier (Ashland) needs to provide CoA that confirms analytically the active principles are at specified levels. Failing that you should do efficacy testing for each product with each batch.
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p-Hydroxybenzyl acetone 4-p-Hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone - the active. It is produced synthetically and naturally of course from raspberries. Also synthesized by bacteria and fungi from 5 ppm with one report of max level~100 ppm. So if natural extract - how much raspberry ketone is in raspberry ketone.
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We did try the product early on. (It has been available longer than many believe). It isn’t a multifunctional preservative but a booster. Our client was presented the product by a rep and included it in the initial Product Design. We used it as part of a preservative system that passed testing, but most likely from the other aspects of the preservative system. The client dropped the product during the “Oh Crap, why is my product so expensive to manufacture” phase. The revised product also passed testing without the booster.
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Thanks for sharing. What were the main preservatives if you don’t mind me asking?
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Euxyl K700 and Dermofeel PA as a chelant. We were limited in our use of glycols due to the type of product and the client’s request. Packaging was critical, it was pH dependent, and “theoretical Aw” was also utilized as a part of a hurdle technique. As often happens, the client attended a Trade Show and was “sold” on the product by the rep as a multifunctional preservative rather than a booster.
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