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Quats e Non- quats
Hello,
I hope this email finds you well. Greetings from Brazil! Help me clarify some doubts and perhaps share some experiences regarding cationic ingredients. I’ve been working on formulating a rinse-off hair treatment for the past few days, aiming to avoid using BTAC or BTMS due to environmental concerns. Instead, I’m focusing on using stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine. However, I’ve noticed that the conditioning results are not as substantial or significantly effective when compared to combining these with BTAC, for example.
My primary goal is to find more environmentally friendly alternatives, although that’s not the main focus of my inquiry today. I’m wondering if there are any other cationic ingredients that could match the performance of traditional quats and polyquats, such as the solutions offered by INOlex (Brassicyl Valinate Esylate, Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate) or Greengredients’ GREENQUAT® BT. I’ve heard that Brassicyl Valinate Esylate can leave a chalky residue on the hair, based on reports from some formulators.
This brings me to the question: What makes BTAC so unbeatable in its performance? I truly appreciate your time and willingness to share your extensive knowledge.
Thank you in advance for your insights.
Best regards,
Jr. Pava
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2 Replies
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Olá JR, tudo bem?
It depends on the overall formula. When using Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine or Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine, what else is in the formula? Also, how is the pH? You can make effective conditioners with either of these with the right formula conditions (ie pH between 4 and 5, acid up front, fatty alcohol and a little bit of emollient.)
And for Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate - Inolex has a new version of this called Aminosensyl Ultra that’s marketed to have comparable performance to Behentrimonium Chloride. You may want to look at this as an option. I’ve tried it, and while it is not exactly a 1:1 performance comparison, you could still make a nice conditioner formula with this.
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BTAC is the most substantial behenyl quaternary ammonium salt simply because it has the highest charge-mass ratio. The other behenyl and brassicyl quats have weaker ones, simple as that. Now if the user maintains contact with the other ones for a longer time - 20 to 30 minutes maybe - they might match BTAC. The brassicyl quats have a sensorial finish not nearly as soft as the behenyls, so keep that in mind. That could be the source of the “chalky” response.
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