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problem with a formula-any recommendations?
hi there
i recently tried this formula which was really nice in the first few days and then two things have happened
1.it became granular after two days2.the water slowly separate and evaporate {week+}and the formula regress to butter mode
this is the formula :
7.2 oz water
1.5oz shea butter
1.44 oz coconut butter
0.6 oz meadowfoam oil
0.64 oz emulsifying wax
0.36 oz stearic acid
0.12 oz optipen
0.06 oz vitamin ewhat should i changed?
can i replace the vitamin e in BHT, in what precent?
thank you in advance
Goldie -
10 Replies
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It is difficult to really weigh-in since you are using volume, not wt/wt%. This is one of the many reasons we weigh out materials, not use volumetric measures. In this case it would make it easy to judge the percentages and see where you have an issue.
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Yes, if you put the formula in terms of weight % rather than volume an answer might be more readily obvious.
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the percentage:
water-60.4%
shea butter-12.58%
coconut butter-12.08%
meadow-foam oil-5.03%
emulsifying wax-5.37%
stearic acid-3.02%
optipen + -1.01%
vitamin e50 -0.5%thank you
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I do believe that your emulsifying wax is too low for such a high oil load, about 32.71%. Rule of thumb used to be 25% of your oil load. However, especially with the stearic acid, at these levels you will see “soaping.” Also, you can use an emulsion stabilizer such as a carbomer or natural gum in the water phase. So, less oil, more Ewax or I suggest a better emulsifier and lastly an emulsion stabilizer. No offense please, but this is essentially a very rudimentary or beginner Formula. I would explore other emulsifiers and actives. Ask yourself, “What claims and benefits am I trying to deliver with this product?” Moisturization? Something as easy as adding a glycol to the water phase would help a bit. Numerous actives are available. A great product delivers a claim in a parallel manner and delivers several claims as well.
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There are various forms of Emulsifying Wax that each contain different ingredients and, therefore, emulsify under different conditions.
If, for instance, your Emulsifying Wax INCI is: Beeswax, Lecithin, Carnauba Wax, then it is a “soaping” emulsifier and you’re going to have to include NaOH or KOH the get the pH up for it to emulsify. So, if you give the INCI of your Emulsifying Wax, that would help.
And, as Mark pointed out above, your Oil & Butters load should be more in the range 11% to 13% (total) and you’re way, way over that.
The Stearic Acid, likewise, will require a base to raise the pH … it is also a “soaping” emulsifier. If your Emulsifying Wax INCI is: Cetylstearyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60, then you don’t need a base. The Stearic Acid will remain unreacted, but that is not a problem it can give a nice skin sensorial.
Stick with the Vitamin E … that has nothing to do with your problem.
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Since others have commented about emulsification I will merely add:
granularity: usually to do with shea butter, which can re-solidify like that after being melted.
the water slowly separate and evaporate how can it evaporate if in a closed container? -
I worked with an OLD Batchmaster once and his rule of thumb was to use 25% of the oil load of Ewax (here I refer to Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Polysorbate 60 which is properly known as Emulsifying Wax, NF). He then would say “If it isn’t Polawax add another 1%.” He was an interesting character. Needless to say, this is a great beginning emulsifier, but my personal opinion is that there are numerous superior emulsifiers and I can hardly see any reason to launch a product with Ewax.
I also think Belassi is spot on about the graininess. -
first thank you all on your comments,
i did used :Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Polysorbate 60-as the e.wax
Belassi i left part of the batch not in a closed container
and have tried it with shorea butter in one of the batches instead of the shea so im not sure thats the reason of the graininess
but overall i understand the percentage of oils is way up so i will toned it down
and try againthanks again
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Well, if you leave any kind of product lying around it will not go well, you know. Even anhydrous product gets messed up by ambient humidity.
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you are right
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