@MAGDA
1) You DO NOT USE PARABENS? No problem! Use DMDM Hydantoin! I am not telling you what it is other than it is VERY EFFECTIVE AND SAFE is used as recommended. 0.5% to 0.6% usage rate. You could use less but…I, for one, do not want to take the risk of stupidly making myself suffer from preventable skin ailments. I might even go blind!
2) How is not using chelating agent very bad? You are fine if you use distilled water. I never use distilled water. I use deionised water bought from petrol station, for battery use! :p
3) Maybe adding Citric Acid helps to act as buffer for Urea. From my humble experience, all is fine if I use up the finished product quickly.
In case you wonder why the heck I am talking about, I invite you to read THIS. Madly long and technical, but amazing! Amazing to me, that is! Hehehehehehehe!
I probably could not help you further than this due to my finite experience and knowledge. I make things for myself only, not for selling, thus I do not have question about what (named) products to use. I do not go by products nor allow names of companies to determine what I want to make. I dislike to limit myself to named products. Meaning, let us say that I could not find Myritol, I could use Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride on the rack in any pharmacies. Many pharmacy staff and pharmacists here think that I am an arrogant fool because I never tell them names of drugs, I utter the actual chemical names instead.
Besides that, very often, substances that have ‘cosmetics’ label of them prices are very high, I am not doing a business with what I make so I will not earn back the money. But the high price is sometimes, only sometimes, justified because those are usually highly purified (I mean deodorised). Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride at a pharmacy does have ‘goat’ smell as it is. Myritol may not have much of that smell as it is modified one (According to what BASF website writes).
Xanthan Gum is similar. Cheap/common Xanthan Gum (yellowish powder) from bakery shop has an uneasy scent, odour gets a bit worse when mixes in water. For sometime I wondered why the heck my product has shitty scent. Expensive Xanthan Gum from Jungbunzlauer (white powder) has scent but not uneasy, odour becomes imperceptible in water.