Preservation Strategies For Natural Formulators

MarkBroussard

Member

December 27, 2014 at 10:02 am

What are the components of the natural preservatives you were given? It is very difficult to find a preservative that is effective at pH above 6.

nasrins

Member

December 27, 2014 at 10:27 am

@markbroussard why preservatives are inactive at pH above 6?

braveheart

Member

December 27, 2014 at 10:54 am

What about Gluconolactone and Potasium sorbate?

Can someone combine these two and claim “Natural Preservative”?

MarkBroussard

Member

December 27, 2014 at 11:00 am

@nasrins … because most are organic acids (at least the ones that I work with)

@braveheart: Yes, Gluconolactone and Sodium Benzoate are commonly used together and are ECOCert.

braveheart

Member

December 27, 2014 at 12:00 pm

Thanks MarkBroussard.

But do you think those two would cover bacteria and fungi?

MarkBroussard

Member

December 27, 2014 at 8:39 pm

No, Gluconolactone has minimal, if any preservation effect. So, you need to supplement the potassium sorbate with a bactericide, a chelating agent and some citric acid.

MakingSkincare

Member

December 28, 2014 at 5:39 am

braveheart, yongnn30, nasrins, There is a LOT more to preserving a product than just adding a preservative. In this post I set out the checklist below https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/598/experiences-with-leucidal-liquid-as-a-natural-preservative-in-creams-and-lotions/p1 

(The checklist which was originally taken from http://www.makingskincare.com/preservatives/ which Mark also refers to above)

1. Minimise sources of energy for microbial growth (aka “bug food”) - eg fruit, botanicals, tea, lecithin, mineral water, milk of any kind, honey, hydrosols, floral waters, aloe vera, extracts, protein, clay, powders, starches etc - reduce these to a tiny % (eg 0.1%). This is very important.

2. Double check against the webpage above whether your preservative is truly broad spectrum. If your preservative isn’t one of the 27 reviewed on this webpage check for it here - https://www.facebook.com/groups/makingskincare/permalink/529462787179550/ (If you can’t access this second link do first join the Making Skincare facebook group here - https://www.facebook.com/groups/makingskincare/)

3. Add glycerin and other polyols

4. Add 0.2% disodium EDTA into the heated water phase

5. Switch to packaging which the customer can’t contaminate easily - jars are the worst for contamination.

6. Reduce the pH to between 4 and 5 if possible.

7. Sanitise your equipment with 70% IPA

8. Use distilled, deionised or purified water, not tap/faucet or mineral water

9. If your water isn’t micro checked, heat and hold your water phase at 75c/167f for 20 minutes - this will kill some of the non-endospore forming bacteria. (If your preservative can withstand heat put it in the heated water phase rather than the heated oil phase. This improves preservative contact with the water phase so that it is not partitioned in the water-oil interface).

10. If possible micro test all of your raw materials.

11. Use good GMP - http://www.mariegale.com/good-manufacturing-practices/gmp-basics.html

12. Don’t rely on sight, smell - one can put 100,000 bacteria into a milliliter of water and the water will appear to the naked eye to be crystal clear and usually won’t smell bad. Most cosmetics tested have counts ranging into the tens of thousands or millions of cells per milliliter have subtle or no aesthetic differences from sterile samples. The only way to know if your preservative system is working is to get it tested.

yongnn30

Member

December 30, 2014 at 11:02 am

@MarkBroussard.. The material that I’m using to claim as preservatives free for My Natural Toothpaste formulation is Saliguard EZ, compatible from pH4 to pH9.. Inci name propanediol & ethylhexylhlycerin..

The second formulation, we try it without any “preservatives”… Million Thanks to @MakingSkincare for the superb idea… Tough day to go towards accomplish this task…

MarkBroussard

Member

December 30, 2014 at 11:26 am

@yongnn30:

I would venture to say that Saliguard EZ is a combination of preservative boosters, but would be wary of using Salisguard EZ by itself as a preservative. EHG will give you some effect against microorganisms as a preservative, but it is not broad spectrum. 1,3-Propanediol will also boost preservative efficacy by binding free water.

It would appear that you do not have anything in there to provide protection against yeast & mold. You might try throwing in some Sodium Anisate & Sodium Levulinate to round out your coverage.

yongnn30

Member

December 30, 2014 at 11:31 am

OMG!!.. Thanks @MarkBroussard… Will stick to second formulation (without any preservatives) and monitor it while searching for alternatives Of Saliguard EZ

MarkBroussard

Member

December 30, 2014 at 12:10 pm

Oh! Don’t misunderstand my post. Salisguard EZ will indeed help with preservation, but would only be one part of a preservation strategy. It needs to be supplemented with an antifungal.

Just curious … why do you not want to include preseratives? In a toothpaste, I would think this to be quite risky … much more so than in a topical skincare product.

yongnn30

Member

December 30, 2014 at 9:32 pm

I see…. :-? Currently we are using Sodium Benzoate to preserve toothpaste at pH7 to pH8. Since our new customer asking for natural toothpaste (with premium quality) we are considering something that Natural/safe/less irritant. So our team decide to come out with everything Natural in the formulation (its totally crazy to deal with this kind of formulation)…. the final idea, toothpaste without preservatives or with natural preservatives…

@MarkBroussard… do have any idea on SLS or Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate substitute?… for this moment we have Lathanol (inci Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate) and Sapponin Complex but we looking for more option for Natural surfactant

MarkBroussard

Member

December 30, 2014 at 9:58 pm

@Yongnn30:

Take a look at the chemical structure of Sodium Benzoate and the structure of Sodium Anisate … very similar. You might consider Dermasoft 1388 from Dr. Straetmann’s (Germany) plus some Salisguard EZ as your natural preservatives for this product. Also, look at the chemical structure of Potassium Sorbate compared to Sodium Levulinate … same similarity.

As for toothpaste without preservatives. Frankly, I just do not understand the whole “Preservative-Free” concept. To me, that is an unnecessarily risky business proposition. Besides the potential for an embarrassing, and perhaps business-ending, product recall, there is also the liability issue. Just try explaining in a lawsuit that your “Preservative-Free” formulation actually did indeed have preservatives and was safe for use.

Let me get back to you on surfactant options.

yongnn30

Member

December 31, 2014 at 12:34 am

Thanks @MarkBroussard… you are absolutely superb!!!…

I have to start from basic and analyze everything in the formulation before start it all over again…. by considering everything you just mentioned… Thanks once again

braveheart

Member

December 31, 2014 at 9:19 am

@MakingSkincare… Thanks

@MarkBroussard… Thanks

Sodium benzoate with L-Ascorbic acid will form a benzene, isn’t it?

What else can someone combine with sorbic acid to form a broad spectrum, please?

What other “green” bactericide is there?

braveheart

Member

December 31, 2014 at 9:26 am

So many of the “green” preservatives suggested on this forum are not easily available in the UK.

I am looking for something that is “green” and easily available in the UK as a bactericide, while avoiding Sodium benzoate because of the potential hazards with Ascorbic acid.

Any suggestions, please?

MarkBroussard

Member

December 31, 2014 at 10:27 am

@Braveheart: Dr. Straetmann’s UK-based distributor info is below. They have some nice options for “green” preservatives. Also, Schulke & Mayr will have a UK distributor.

Infinity Ingredients Ltd.

Arc House

Terrace Road South

Binfield, Berkshire

RG42 4 PZ

Great Britain

http://www.infinity-ingredients.co.uk

Mr. Andrew Goodwin

T +44 1344 397 768

andrew.goodwin@infinity-ingredients.co.uk

braveheart

Member

December 31, 2014 at 10:57 am

Thanks for that, much appreciated.
I just saw Vegicide at Ingredientstodiefor and instantly loved it.

But I will contact this company.

braveheart

Member

December 31, 2014 at 3:52 pm

I have two questions. I was checking up on some “green” preservatives and found this -

Plantaserve S Natural (Suprapein). The constituents are:

extracts of Oregano leaf extract, Thyme extract, Cinnamon bark extract, rosemary leaf extract, Lavender Flower extract, Lemon peel extract, peppermint leaf extract, Golden Seal Root extract and Olive leaf extract.

Solubility: It is soluble in oil…..

Recommended percentage of use: 0.5%

Using this preservative means one can claim - 100% natural, isn’t it?

But then has Plantaserve S Natural been proved to be an effective broad spectrum?

Reason behind Question: Bad press and public perception has really damaged the integrity of parabens, so for someone like me (more of a marketer) to look for “green” preservatives.

belassi

Member

December 31, 2014 at 6:38 pm

I believe that might work about as much as I believe in Santa Claus.

Microformulation

Member

December 31, 2014 at 10:15 pm

Regardless since “natural” has no legal definition, I think the claim “100% natural” is a marketing term, not one for Cosmetic Scientists.

In the end the only way to assess efficacy is to use the product properly and then perform micro testing.

yongnn30

Member

January 7, 2015 at 8:27 pm

Yup… Agreed …

braveheart

Member

January 8, 2015 at 9:45 am

Granted, every oil is actually a synthesis off a plant. But, again for marketing purposes; Are ingredients such as Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Lactate and Potassium Sorbate classified as “natural” in the same vein as coconut oil?

MarkBroussard

Member

January 8, 2015 at 10:13 am

@braveheart:

If you want to formulate using “Natural” … familiarize yourself with ECOCert. The quick answer to your questions is … “Yes” … Sodium Benzoate and Potassium Sorbate are ECOCert approved ingredients.

For a review of ECOCert approved preservatives, read http://www.makingskincare.com/preservatives/ … go down to the very bottom where she has a list of ECOCert approved preservatives. FYI, the entire post is well worth reading.

There are more that are not on the list as this is an area ripe with new product development, but it’s a great start.

braveheart

Member

January 8, 2015 at 12:59 pm

@MarkBroussard, Thanks.

I did read through the suggested website (rich info), I guess I may have missed that bit of information. Perhaps, I should read it again. I have been able to acquire a list of ECOCert approved ingredients.