Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Practical use of the HBL scale

  • Practical use of the HBL scale

    Posted by Madonherbs on December 30, 2022 at 2:22 am

    Hi all, 

    Gotta say, emulsifiers are the bain of my world and I feel I need to go back to basics. I understand the HBL scale but can’t work out how to use it in a practical way. 

    I am trying to use the HBL scale to find the correct emulsifiers for both creams and lotions.  Can I calculate the best emulsifier by using the scale for products between 20-45% creams and lotions? 

    What am I looking at when buying emulsifiers? 

    I am a degree-qualified herbalist and self-taught all-natural skincare formulator. 

    Thanks for your time 
     

    ketchito replied 1 year, 8 months ago 5 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • Graillotion

    Member
    December 30, 2022 at 4:59 am

    Are you asking about HLB?

    I am unfamiliar with HBL scale?

  • Pharma

    Member
    December 30, 2022 at 8:52 am

    …I understand the HBL scale but can’t work out how to use it in a practical way…

    I suppose you mean HLB… That system does work for a very narrow range of formulations mostly based on PEG-emulsifies.
    I do, from a hypothetical and traditional standpoint, understand the system but, like most people and most applications, can’t work out how to use it in a practical way either. That’s simply because that system is useless… it’s just there because it’s been around for so long and because there’s only one other system around which does work (HLD-NAC)… Alas, that one is difficult to work with and for most ingredients, the values are unknown/unpublished.
  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 30, 2022 at 10:52 am

    @Madonherbs

    The HLB system is no more accurate, nor as good a predictor, as just starting off with 2% Glyceryl Stearate + 4% Olivem 1000.  The system was developed for PEG-emulsifiers and does not really apply to other non-PEG emulsifiers.

    Remember the old adage:  GIGO (Garbage In = Garbage Out) … that’s the HLB system.  However, you can use the list of HLB of various emulsifiers as a guide of sorts, but don’t bother trying to calculate anything.

    More important is to understand the type of emulsifier you are using:  O/W, W/O, Lamellar, etc. and what it best pairs with as a co-emulsifier.

  • ketchito

    Member
    December 30, 2022 at 11:47 am

    Just as an addition to @Pharma‘s point, you can  find some literature about the HLD-NAC model here: https://www.stevenabbott.co.uk/practical-surfactants/the-book.php. It’s a quick and easy to follow reference.

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